Achieving UVA Protection and Awaiting Regulation Updates at the Sunscreen Symposium

By: Katie Schaefer, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine

Posted: September 25, 2009

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Next up was Mike Brown (Boots), who observed that “all rating systems are the same, they just use different math at the end.” Brown described adaptations to the Boots star-rating system to take photodegradation into account, in line with EC guidelines. The main factors influencing photodegradation, according to Brown, include the source of the UV exposure, UV filter concentration and film thickness, temperature and the environment. Brown discussed these factors in detail, concluding that test methods should reproduce these parameters and adhere as closely as possible to the “in-use” situation. He found the PPD method to be removed from reality.

Hani Fares (ISP Corp.) then rounded out the mini conference with insights on the FDA’s proposed in vitro UVA methodology. Like previous speakers, Fares noted how the substrate can affect the accuracy of UVA testing. He obtained the highest level of absorbance using quartz plates, adding that greater photodegradation occurred when lower doses were applied to the plates.

A roundtable discussion, moderated by Dennis Lott (Tanning Research Labs Inc.), closed the first day’s session. The expert panel included: Matthew Holman, PhD (FDA); Robert Sayre, PhD (Rapid Precision Testing Labs); Staton; Brown; Nadim Shaath, PhD (Alpha R&D, Ltd.); David Steinberg (Steinberg & Associates); Curt Cole (Johnson & Johnson); Joseph Stanfield (Suncare Research Labs); and Uli Osterwalter (Ciba Corp.).

Steinberg opened with suggestions for changes he would make to the FDA monograph. In reference to the amount of sunscreen applied to a substrate for testing, he noted that 1 mg/cm2 would be a more accurate depiction of actual use by the consumer than 2 mg/cm². He also suggested removing number and star rating systems, as well the words low, medium, high or very high that indicate levels of UV protection.

Cole commented that products having higher SPF levels protect consumers better against accumulated UV damage and extreme environments. In addition, he defended high level SPFs as also being better for sensitive skin.