A Piece of History and a Slice of Cosmetics

By: Katie Schaefer, Cosmetics & Toiletries

Posted: June 10, 2009

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Another formulating challenge was resolved using water-in-silicone (w/s) emulsions, as addressed by Lisa Van Ommeren of Dow Corning. She found that w/s emulsions allow formulators to provide pleasant aesthetics and textures in addition to wash-off resistance and a long-lasting hold. Specifically, she noted that silicone polyethers allow for a large variety of textures and stable formulations.

The silicone discussion was continued by Stacy A. Mundschau of Kimberly Clark; however, the focus moved to SPF retention with silicone derivatives. Mundschau noted that dimethicone copolyol has excellent solubility in ethanol. He emphasized that this material could retain 100% of the original SPF by forming a water-resistant film alone or in conjunction with other polymers.

Paul Chang of Seppic focused his discussion on polymers, as his company investigated the structure and property connections of thickening and stabilizing polymers. He noted that the monomer choice was the key to get a thickening effect in a wide pH range with resistance to UV exposure. His team formulated with acrylamide and acryloyldimethyltaurate with a pH of 3–10 and stability with UV exposure.

The second day mostly focused on hair. The first session, moderated by Robert Lochhead, PhD, explored new methodologies in hair science. Yan Zhou of International Specialty Products opened with the discussion of color fade in hair. Her team found that many factors cause color fade, including thermal treatments and UV exposure. Asian hair, according to Zhou, fades less than European hair because it has more cuticle cells, making it more resistant to damage. She introduced polyquaternium-55 to impart wash-resistant hydrophobility on damaged hair surface to cause it to fade less.

Renee Bolden of Procter & Gamble went on to discuss the use of flow cell microscopy to view deposition of ingredients. Bolden showed a series of videos illustrating the deposition of shampoo and conditioner actives. Janusz Jachowicz, PhD, of Better Cosmetics LLC then covered the limitations of protein and protein hydrolyzates in deposition efficacy. He used measurements such as streaming potentials and contact angles to conclude that hydrolyzed wheat and soy proteins make bleached hair more hydrophobic and intact hair more hydrophilic.