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A Piece of History and a Slice of Cosmetics
By: Katie Schaefer, Cosmetics & Toiletries
Posted: June 10, 2009
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Concurrent afternoon sessions explored two sides of cosmetic science—formulation and analysis. The analytical session, chaired by Martha Tate, PhD, of Kimberly-Clark, opened with an analysis of free anhydrous formaldehyde (FA) availability on two donor preservatives, imidazolidinyl and imidiazolidynyl urea. Michael Tallon, PhD, of ISP explained the use of Carbon Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (13C-NMR) as a non-invasive and non-destructive method to accurately determine FA levels without affecting the equilibrium of the preservatives.
Following Tallon, Paul Winter, PhD, of Chemir Analytical Services explored the concept of deformulation (reverse engineering), using techniques to identify and quantify components and component types present in a sample, ranging from HPLC and NMR, to GCMS and Atomic Emission Spectroscopy. During the Q&D session, Joe Dallal asked what would motivate this type of work, to which Winter replied, “To compare good versus bad batches, when consumers complain. Or, for patent infringement to compare formulas and ensure a competitor is not using a patented formulation.”
Ingo Schelenberg, PhD, of the Anhalt University of Applied Sciences Institute of Bioanalytical Sciences (IBAS) then presented improved HPTLC as a tool for the qualification and quantification of lipids and phospholipids in cosmetics, and for the determination of major stratum corneum lipids. This 8-step process was shown to reduce total development time as well as reduce the accumulation of additives from solvents.
Finally, Gerardo Callegari, PhD, of TRI/Princeton presented an experiment to study the thickness of the liquid film left behind from a moving wet wipe. The equation presented measured the thickness of the film in relation to varying velocities and saturations, to serve as a tool for formulators designing systems for wipes applications, such as sunscreens. During the Q&A session, Prof. Randy Wickett, PhD, asked whether the model considered surface friction, to which Callegari replied, “This model was designed for smooth surface measurements.”
The third session of the day focused on formulations and was moderated by Jim Vlasic of Greenway Research Lab. Eric Abrutyn of TPC2 Advisors Ltd. began the session with a discussion on glycerin. According to Abrutyn, glycerin is one of the better moisturizers but can leave a clammy or tacky feeling on skin if it is not formulated correctly. Through previous research, Abrutyn found that a cationic delivery system is the best vehicle to optimize hydration of glycerin, and that small amounts of alkylamide MEA boost the performance of glycerin.