In Depth and In Focus at in-cosmetics

By: Katie Schaefer

Posted: April 29, 2009

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While some innovations have pushed the industry toward a concept of techno beauty, others remain firmly rooted in naturals and organics. In fact, a vast majority of suppliers at the show focused efforts on re-launching bio-derived or eco-friendlier versions of former ingredient offerings. Botanicals were highlighted to enhance products with a sense of well-being, and materials such as natural cherry powder and dried palm tree milk powder sparked interest as novel sources for natural materials.

Within this natural vein, the representation of two particular firms at in-cosmetics was interesting. NaTrue, a natural and organic certification group out of Brussels, was present to describe its approach to labeling simply as “the truth” about ingredients. According to Vincent Letertre of the group’s scientific committee, “We do not view parabens as ‘bad,’ we just acknowledge that they are not natural.” Letertre added that some ingredients are necessary in formulations to ensure efficacy and safety, and the group considers this fact in its labeling requirements.

Minimum and maximum levels for ingredients are set per product category and classed in a 1-3 star rating system, including: genuine natural cosmetics, natural cosmetics with organic ingredients, and organic cosmetics. “We strive to be transparent,” explained Julie Tyrrell, secretary general for the group, “Consumers expect that materials labeled as natural are in fact natural.” To which Letertre added, “Half-truths are not sustainable.”

Looking ahead, the Union for Bioethical Trade presented on the next wave in the naturals segment: biodiversity. According to the group, with so many industries focused on natural materials, questions about the preservation of ecosystems from which they are derived are raised. In a new study of 4,000 consumers in France, Germany, the UK and the USA, 1 out of 2 consumers said they had heard of biodiversity and 85% of study respondents said they wanted to know more about how companies in the cosmetics sector source their natural ingredients. Rik Kutsch Lojenga, executive director for the union, explained, “While consumers have heard of biodiversity, they are just beginning to understand what it means.” He added that as they become more educated, consumers will seek natural products that maintain the natural ecosystem. “The year 2010 will be the year of biodiversity.”

Naturals were also discussed by Gillian Morris, director at chemicals and materials practice for Kline & Company in her marketing presentation, “Innovative and Enabling Technologies in Personal Care- Future Outlook.” According to Morris, the countries seeing double digit growth in person care are Argentina, India, Brazil, China and Russia. She noted that the demarcation between the nutrition, pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries is blurring. Delivery systems, according to Morris, are a distinct innovation area that includes nanoparticles, microencapsulation, microsponges, patches and films. Of the many different delivery technologies, Morris highlighted the “stay put technologies” or patches as particularly innovative and of interest for future innovators. Morris also highlighted the raw materials used in innovation in 2008 including: vitamins A, E, C, and K; enzymes; alpha lipoic acid; peptides, biopolymers, botanical actives, skin lightening actives and proteins.