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Water Content, Nanoparticles and Skin Penetration in Brazil: Lindo Maravilhoso!
By: Rachel Grabenhofer, Cosmetics & Toiletries
Posted: May 29, 2013
SÃO PAULO—Water content, surfactants, thickeners, actives, nanoparticles and skin penetration were among the hot topics presented at the biennial XXI COLAMIQC congress of the Latin American and Iberian cosmetic chemists. Held May 14-16, 2013, in São Paulo, technical sessions were paired alongside the FCE Cosmetique exhibition and trade show for both the cosmetics and pharmaceuticals industries. Supporting the event were the FELASCC—the Latin American Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Scientists, and the Brazilian Cosmetology Association (ABC), in partnership with NürnbergMesse Brazil, organizer of FCE Cosmetique.
Each day began with technical sessions that ran until late afternoon. These sessions were overlapped by the opening of the exhibition midday, which lasted into the evening. The presentations followed the theme, “Sustainable Technology: Innovation Beyond Cosmetic Science,” and were divided into two tracks: commercial presentations and research. In general, the commercial track featured innovations by supplier companies, whereas the research track focused on university work.
For example, on the commercial side, Hal Rose, of Active Organics, highlighted the company’s Actisea H2O technology (INCI: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (and) Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract (and) Algae Extract). He discussed how this blend provides hydration in skin and hair. “Why is hair hydration important?” asked Rose. “Low humidity will make hair brittle, causing split ends and flyaway hair due to static build-up. When added at 3% to formulations, Actisea increases the water content of hair by 38%,” he said, noting the ingredient also controls water content levels that are too high in high humidity situations.
The ingredient’s mechanism is based on polysugars, which work in low or high humidity to capture, maintain and regulate the amount of water in hair. “Damaged hair is very porous, and these proteins restore the damaged portions of hair,” explained Rose. Further, the material was tested in skin and shown to increase hydration levels by 22% after a two-week, twice daily use study. Laser Doppler also showed the ingredient reduced 49% of irritation caused by SLS.
Also describing commercial technologies, Ravikumar Pillai of Symrise proposed and alternative preservation system for cosmetics, after which Anatoly Damashek, of Stepan Company, described the basic mechanisms of surfactants and how to balance isoelectric charges for proper cleansing and conditioning. Anne Hetier of Sederma, discussed the novel application of peptides in blemish balm (BB) creams, color correction (CC) creams and daily defense (DD) creams. And André Pereira, of Seppic Brasil, presented Sepimax Zen (INCI: Polyacrylates Crosspolymer-6), a thickening and stabilizing polymer whose mechanism works via electrostatic hydrophobic interactions.
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