Exploring New Research at Stratum Corneum 2012

By: Katerina Steventon, PhD, FaceWorkshops

Posted: November 1, 2012

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Biophysical and biochemical properties of female intimate skin were explored by Ray Warren of P&G, and research into variations in residual skin surface components (the mixture of sebum and sweat residue) based on age, gender and ethnicity was presented by Matt Traynor, PhD, of University of Hertfordshire.

Martin Albrecht of GSK discussed enhanced recovery of intercellular lipid damage of the SC by topical application of phospholipids showing advantages compared to classical emulsifier/surfactant based systems. Russell Elliott, PhD, of Johnson & Johnson studied benefits of glycerin in xerotic skin, improving barrier function and hydration and inhibiting the transition of SC lipids from liquid to solid phase.

Georgios Stamatas, PhD, of Johnson & Johnson explored the intricacies of infant skin physiology and structure. Compared to adult skin, the higher epidermal cell turnover gives rise to smaller, less mature corneocytes and thinner SC layers. This translates to weaker barrier and increased skin hydration, softer SC and a difference in microbial colonization. Factors influencing SC integrity and maturation in neonates were discussed by Marty Visscher, MD, of the Cincinnati Children Hospital. Neonatal SC provides innate immunity and protection, and it enables life-supporting tactile discrimination, critically important for premature infant survival. An understanding of the SC adaptive changes is essential for the development of evidence-based practices on the neonatal units.

Dematological and Cosmetic Aspects of SC

Professor Mike Cork, PhD, from the University of Sheffield, gave a talk about skin barrier breakdown in AD and the effect of topical products. AD develops as a result of gene-environment interactions, which leads to a breakdown of the barrier. The first line treatment is to repair the defective skin barrier. There is a lack of evidence for the effect topical products have on the skin barrier, and some formulations have a detrimental effect. The challenge is to educate clinicians, patients and consumers. A comprehensive review of skin lipid barrier was presented by Professor Joke Bouwstra, PhD, from Leiden University, demonstrating that changes in ceramide composition and lipid organization play a role in the barrier impairment in AD. Carmen Martinezlerga of Croda Europe Ltd. studied the impact of emulsifiers, generating “a spectrum of skin mildness” for different end formulations (e.g., leave- on or wash-off product). Her goal is to change the formulator’s priorities; to be influenced not only by the formulation stability and aesthetic but also its interaction with the skin.

Lisa Kroll of Kimberly-Clark Corp. talked about SC changes after mechanical damage with emery paper. She described significant biophysical but no biochemical changes immediately after the abrasion. In the days after, there was a decrease of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) components. Barrier function recovered within a week, but NMF has not been restored, even after 11 days. Izabela Buraczewska-Norin of ACO Hud Nordic AB reiterated that sensory properties of moisturizers influence compliance and treatment effectiveness; these should meet consumers’ preferences. The lack of correlation between instrumental and sensory analysis suggests that “skin feel” is hard to measure by objective methods.