Stem Cells, Wellness and Claims Substantiation Take Center Stage at IFSCC Congress

By: Rachel L. Grabenhofer

Posted: October 24, 2012

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In relation, Mirela Gianeti of the University of Sao Paulo evaluated the skin penetration of UV filters using reflectance confocal microscopy, whereas Ian Tooley of Croda Europe measured UV-initiated free radical generation in skin substitutes by electron spin spectroscopy. Heat Shock Protein 27 in the stratum corneum was considered a potential marker for the noninvasive detection of environmental stress, by Takahashi Yoshino of FANCL Corp., Japan; the assessment of an anti-aging cosmetic formula by in vivo confocal scanning laser microscopy was illustrated by Jamila Essadouni of Yves-Rocher; and a tool based on osmotic pressure for investigating the structure and function of the aqueous phase of cosmetics was highlighted by Luigi Rigano. "Osmotic pressure is very influential in living organisms," said Rigano. "Osmolytes protect the native form of protein."

In addition, Robin Fleser of the Artistry division of Amway described the development of an automated method to objectively determine changes in pore count, pore size and pore area. This technique utilized advanced imaging with an algorithm to digitally plot the pores on the face and assign a pore score, which could be used to compare the before and after effects of products. "Interestingly, the pore score varied among individuals in the morning versus midday or afternoon," said Fleser, who added, "this shows the importance of ensuring that efficacy tests be performed at the same time of day with individual subjects."

Anti-oxidation, Cooling, Web-based Imaging and More

Among the various other research topics presented were antioxidants and anti-oxidative strategies; sensory benefits and their measurements; a Web-based tool for skin care analysis; and a novel, invisible nanosheet for skin benefits. Strategies for suppressing radical chemistry in hair coloring products were discussed by Jennifer Marsh of Procter & Gamble, whose presentation won the IFSCC Applied Research Award. Her work found that chelators EDTA and EDDS, in the presence of copper ions alone, equally suppressed hydroxyl radication formation. However, the addition of calcium to the EDTA system increased radical formation eventually, while EDDS continued to prevent it.

Fumitaka Fujita of Mandom Corp. presented mechanisms involved in the cooling sensation via the TRPM8 receptor. According to Fujita, this sensation is reported to be impacted by ambient temperature, so his objective was to "control the cooling sensation precisely in various ambient temperatures." Interesting to note is that his work found 1,8-cineole to be a more suitable cooling agent than menthol.

Greg Hillebrand, also of Procter & Gamble, presented the validation of a Web-based imaging system for at-home skin care analysis. The system he described allows individuals to track changes in facial wrinkles and pigmentation using their own digital cameras. Hillebrand explained that a special headband is worn by the user to calibrate the system for consistent analysis. His work received an honorable mention by the IFSCC for Applied Research.