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Greener Chemistry Leads the SCC Charge in Charleston
By: Rachel Grabenhofer, Cosmetics & Toiletries
Posted: June 25, 2012
page 2 of 5
During the awards luncheon, Ram Ramaprasad, PhD, of TRI/Princeton, received the SCC's Award for the best paper presented at the 2011 Annual Scientific Meeting, titled, "An Alternative Method for Reshaping Hair." Ramaprasad thanked the society for recognizing his work, as well as his wife for her continued support during his travels from continent to continent. In addition, David Steinberg presented the Henry Maso Keynote Award to Warner for his paper on green chemistry. Regarding the award, Steinberg elaborated, “We learned something from Henry, he didn’t just talk about his accomplishments, and today we learned from this presentation—one of the best I have heard.” Accepting the award, Warner simply thanked the society, adding briefly “You heard enough from me earlier,” referring to his presentation.
Skin and Barrier Protection
The afternoon session, moderated by Karl Lintner, PhD, of KAL’idees, considered the skin and skin barrier and various approaches for studying it. Ingo Schellenberg, PhD, of the Anhalt University of Applied Sciences, described a method to chromatographically separate lipid substances of the stratum corneum (SC) and lipids in cosmetics. This method utilizes high performance thin layer chromatography (HPTLC) combined with TLC-MS (mass spectrometry) in an automated multiple development (AMD) approach to quantify and qualify samples over a wide range of polarities. Linter observed, “This paper benefits the greater scientific community. It is very interesting for skin barrier studies, and analytical chemists can use it as well,” said Lintner.
During the question and answer session, SCC president Joseph Dallal, of Ashland Specialty Ingredients, joked, “Aren’t you embarrassed to show us this quick and efficient method, considering it has taken us years to perform such studies?” The audience laughed in response.
Following Schellenberg, Isabelle Imbert, PhD, also of Ashland, presented work assessing three biological pathways essential to skin barrier permeability, function and recovery. Two natural compounds were evaluated for their effects on cholesterol synthesis; activation of caspase-14, which is activated during terminal differentiation in the epidermis; and modulation of transglutaminases, involved in the formation of the cornified envelope. The compounds in question were found to affect these pathways, suggesting potential application in products for aged skin with reduced lipid synthesis, UV protection and DNA repair capacities. Her work also emphasized the role of lipid homeostasis in skin functioning.
Next up was Smitha Rao of Lonza, who described the production of extracts via a process that elicits a competitive-type response within the microbes used for fermentation. The extracts were designed to provide natural, safe and non-irritating topical treatments for enhancing skin barrier formation and repairing wounds, and were found to increase the expression of the biological markers hyaluronic acid and caspase-14, which are critical for effective barrier function on a cellular level. A 2% extract significantly accelerated the barrier development of wounded skin.