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Suppliers' Day: Building on Concepts
By: Rachel L. Grabenhofer
Posted: May 21, 2012
While this year's NY SCC Suppliers' Day overflowed with novel ingredient offerings—literally, into an entirely new section of the show floor, it seems that many suppliers shifted their focus to product concepts. As previously reported, product launches at the event ranged from ingredients targeting sensitive skin, aging, repair, naturally derived and eco-friendly materials and nutricosmetics, to thickeners, skin brighteners, stabilizers and AP/Deo actives.
However, this year, suppliers seemed less focused on individual ingredient launches and more focused on entire portfolios to provide base formulation ranges, to act as partners, and to support politically and socially responsible product development. While these are not entirely new approaches, the fact that more suppliers went this route is new. Following are just a few examples.
A Spectrum in Sun
Initiating Suppliers' Day as it does every year, Croda held its annual press breakfast, which this year focused on sun care ingredients, especially to address new FDA sun care regulations. The range of products presented aim to assist formulators in developing compliant, cutting-edge products with both UVA and UVB protection, some of which utilize cold process emulsifiers and structurants to boost SPF. Jennifer Hart, marketing manager for Croda in Cheshire, UK, presented the company’s Solaveil ABC products (“Advanced Broad-spectrum Coverage") that can be added to sun formulas in order to meet the FDA’s 370 nm-protection requirement. She explained the product use titanium dioxide, "since this ingredient is accepted pretty much worldwide."
Among other ingredients, Hart specifically discussed the new Solaveil AT-300, which can be used as a single active or in combination with others. It was developed with a hydrophobic coating to impart some water-resistance. Further, the ingredient carrier is naturally derived; however, the proprietary particle design process is key to its efficacy.
Jennifer Donahue, marketing manager of skin care and makeup for Croda USA, then reiterated the fact that a good amount of re-formulation work had to be done to meet the FDA's sun care requirements but introduced three approaches to sun protection, including a light and natural-feeling SPF 16 cream from a cold process, for eco-conscious consumers wanting a more natural feel; a very water-resistant formula with SPF for consumers actively engaged in water sports for longer periods of time; and a “boost” formula with SPF 30 for everyday wear. She specifically discussed the company’s Crodafos CES emulsifier that can impart some water-resistance without forming a film. It does so by forming multilamellar vesicles on skin.
After the presentations, members of the press were taken on a lab tour, where Li Zhi, PhD, showed the irradiation process to test in vitro for SPF, which involved pre-irradiating PMMA plates onto which samples of the product were applied up to 4 MEDs.