in-cosmetics 2012: Genomics, Holistic Approaches and Old Favorites With a Twist

By: Rachel L. Grabenhofer

Posted: April 25, 2012

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Dr. Straetmans introduced Dermosoft Decalact Deo, a natural deodorant active, which was shown to have the same in vitro activity as triclosan and ethylhexylglycerin, with longer-lasting protection than ethylhexylglycerin; and Dermofeel GO Soft, a natural, food-approved emulsifier for w/o formulations. Further, Interpolymer Corp.’s recent launch, Syntran PC 5620, is a water-based, film-forming polymer based on a novel acrylate cross-linking technology that enables the formulation of nail polish that is hydrating, compatible with water-based actives, and eliminates concern for safety hazards, toxicity and VOC levels. This ingredient won the Cosmetics & Toiletries R&D Award for Best New Ingredient.

Sensory Appeal

As previously reported, Eugene Ward of Siltech observed, “The difference between personal care and industrial is that personal care is all about feel and touch.” Thus, the focus of some exhibitors was on these very fundamental and crucial ingredients for personal care products. For instance, Rhodia launched Rheomer 33 (INCI: Polyacrylate-33), a rheology modifying polymer for personal cleansing solutions. This hydrophobically modified, alkali-swellable emulsion (HASE) polymer was designed to provide efficient thickening, shear-thinning rheology and good suspension properties in low-to-medium surfactant systems. Also, resulting from the partnership between Clariant and KitoZyme, Clariant again highlighted its Touch of Nature range of Kitozyme's sensory-enhancing biopolymers for skin, body and hair care formulations. Offered under the line are: Vitipure Feeling (INCI: Chitin (and) Beta-Glucan), for skin care; Vitipure Sensation (INCI: Chitin (and) Beta Glucan), a refined grade for color cosmetics, and Velsan Soft (INCI: Chitosan Succinamide), which boosts wetting and foaming properties.

Sun-sational

With “Solar Beauty” as the theme for the In-Focus feature, sun care played a large role in this year’s product offerings. This featured section on the show floor navigated attendees across a beach setting, complete with sand, palm trees and lounge chairs, to illustrate the latest launches in sun care ingredients. For example, Kobo Products presented its Composite ACT-50 “non-nano” powder containing attenuation-grade titanium dioxide entrapped within an acrylates matrix. The company’s process is designed to reduce agglomeration and provide high SPF efficacy with low whitening effects and greater tactile properties.

The Hallstar Company featured its HallBrite PSF (Undecylcrylene Dimethicone) ingredient, combining the company’s proven photostabilizer technology with the esthetic benefits of silicone. Dow Personal Care showcased its EPITEX water-resistant polymer, while Daito Kasei introduced its Ceriguard SP-O2, another “non-nano” grade of cerium dioxide (CeO₂). According to the company, this material has been used in the painting industry to prevent light fading and has made its way into personal care due to its capacity to reflect light.

Cosmetochem presented its Sereniks natural skin shield based on Canadian Tsuga Canadensis, clinically proven to protect against photo-aging and inflammation. Finally, Instituto di Ricerche Biotecnologiche (I.R.B. Srl) offered its Buddleja Davidii Stems G (INCI: Glycerin (and) Buddleja Davidii Meristem Cell Culture (and) Xanthan Gum) stem cell blend that provides UVA protective benefits in addition to other protective activities.

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