in-cosmetics 2012: Genomics, Holistic Approaches and Old Favorites With a Twist

By: Rachel L. Grabenhofer

Posted: April 25, 2012

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“We are drawing our inspiration from real life and real people while striving to understand what is relevant to them, their needs and habits,” said Simon Medley, senior vice president of BASF Personal Care Europe. “Our new brand, Care Creations, gives voice to this commitment and our business approach, while expressing clearly our strengths of science excellence and market empathy.”

Old Favorites With a Twist

Ingredients for anti-aging benefits and to cleanse the skin while maintaining skin microflora are nothing new, but this year a few new twists on these longstanding concepts were noteworthy. For instance, Sederma presented a ginger extract to alleviate leg discomfort and premature aging in the legs. Legance is a vegetal extract of Zingiber zerumbet obtained by supercritical carbon dioxide that inhibits the inflammatory phenomena leading to lipid storage and water retention, to restore circulation in the legs and relieve the sensation of tiredness. In vivo studies conducted by a company-appointed phlebologist on volunteers found the ginger extract to improve the appearance of legs and ankles, attenuated spider veins and relaxed legs.

In addition, the Solabia Group introduced a technology for the skin’s ecosystem based on a bacterial adhesion regulator. Teflose (INCI: Propanediol (and) Water (aqua) (and) Rhamnose (and) Glucose (and) Glucuronic Acid) inhibits the adhesion of undesirable or pathogenic bacterial strains involved in the creation of body odors, acne and sensitive skin such as atopic dermatitis. This natural branched polysaccharide is rhamnose-rich and obtained by bacterial fermentation.

Eco-friendly and Nature-derived

As Emiro Khury, PhD, of EK Consulting told the editors of Cosmetics & Toiletries, “Natural, sustainable, green and eco-friendly are still a focus [for the industry],” although he noted a greater emphasis seemed to be on highly technical analytical methods. However, these trends in nature-derived, sustainable and eco-friendly ingredients remained strongly apparent in the event education sessions and supplier launches. For instance, a formulation workshop was led by Judi Beerling, technical research manager for Organic Monitor and subject matter expert for the Cosmetics & Toiletries Complete Cosmetic Chemist naturals training program, titled “Green Formulations: Overcoming the Technical Hurdles.” Beerling highlighted the major technical and formulation issues associated with such products, providing practical advice for organizations looking to obtain certifications.

Launches included Mibelle Biochemistry’s PoreAway product based on mastic, an aromatic resin from the bark of a tree that grows on the Greek island of Chios. Gattefossé introduced Gatuline Radiance, an Asian shrub extract that stimulates microcirculation for improved skin radiance, and Calumet Penreco, LLC, debuted its hybrid petrolatum blends that combine Snow White Petrolatum USP with one of the following four natural oils: macadamia nut oil, avocado oil, safflower oil and olive oil. The moisturization properties of petrolatum with natural oils aim to offer a more natural alternative to petrolatum alone.