in-cosmetics 2012: Genomics, Holistic Approaches and Old Favorites With a Twist

By: Rachel L. Grabenhofer

Posted: April 25, 2012

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As noted, several suppliers leverage these techniques to further the development of cosmetic actives. Lipotec, for example, presented its nutricosmetic/cosmetic antiwrinkle concept In & Out, which combines an oral ingredient with a topical ingredient. The topical component is said to control collagen fibril diameter and spacing, ensure collagen network organization, and inhibit collagen degradation and glycation. Also, Evonik launched its Tego Arjuna S (INCI: Terminalia Arjuna Bark Extract (and) Pentylene Glycol) solution of pentacyclic triterpenes to counteract the signs of aging. In vitro DNA chip, gene and protein studies showed the active induces growth factors like VEGF. Furthermore, it up-regulates markers related to increased sebum production (FGFR2, FGF2) to address drying in menopausal skin.

Laboratoires Expanscience developed Effipulp, an anti-aging, plumping and detoxifying active that stimulates the endogenous synthesis of hyaluronic acid to restore volume to mature, dehydrated and stressed skin. Finally, Lonza (Arch) featured its ReGeniStem Red Rice extract elicited to promote the expression of secondary metabolites to upregulate the expression of collagen protein, reducing wrinkles and increasing hydration; this ingredient notably was recognized as a finalist for the Cosmetics & Toiletries R&D Awards.

Holistic Approaches

AkzoNobel Global Personal Care shared information on its Zeta Fraction technology, which was behind the launch of its Recentia CS (INCI: Camellia Sinensis Flower/Leaf/Stem Juice) product. The Zeta Fraction technology, which was developed by Integrated Botanical Technologies (IBT), was acquired in 2011. This technology was used to selectively isolate biologically active components from living Camellia sinensis plants based on their electrokinetic (zeta) potential without any exogenous solvents or chemical modifications. This technology preserves the inherent osmotic pressure of the plant cell juice and uses it as a separations medium. Targeted fractions are then gently separated based on their zeta potential. The resulting fractions provide a wide range of targeted benefits.

Inventor of Zeta Fraction technology Michael Koganov, ScD, PhD, described the novel technique. “We recognized the problems with basic extraction techniques, which are based on dried plants and use solvents.” He added that the new technology maximizes the potential of the whole plant. Leader of the Recentia CS development, Olga Dueva-Koganov, ScD, PhD, said, “This process enables [us] to produce unique and fully sustainable cosmetic ingredients that demonstrate multiple activities and work together to protect skin.”

A different approach to holism was presented by BASF with its new "Inspired by Life" campaign, branded as Care Creations. The company showcased its latest innovations including synthetic mica-based pigments, high-performance hair care ingredients and cosmetic actives, while inviting customers to experience how the personal care market can be shaped by innovations inspired by life.