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Indulgence, Claims and Innovation Trends at In-Cosmetics
By: Imogen Matthews
Posted: April 4, 2012
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The desire for maximum sensory appeal will drive cosmetic brands to move beyond one-dimensional sensory product cues and leverage multisensory branding. Estée Lauder’s Idealist skin care range, specifically its Idealist Even Skintone Illuminator serum, is cited as the “best in class” for its product formulation, packaging and brand communication, creating multisensory experiences that engages all consumer ethnicities. The serum’s tri-optic technology claims to smooth, brighten and even skin tone. Meanwhile, a contoured ceramic-tip applicator provides a cooling effect on the skin on application. Finally, the product’s TV and print ad marketing features models of varied ethnic backgrounds to reinforce its multicultural positioning and achieve an inclusive brand sentiment.
Theresa Callaghan, PhD, will look at the role of marketing in cosmetic clinical trials and their impact on a consumer’s understanding or misunderstanding of product claims. For example, many deodorants now make a 48 hr efficacy claim for their product, which is not essentially incorrect, but can give the consumer the impression that the product is for those who would rather not wash for two days. “The point being missed is that by using a product with 48 hour efficacy could mean you do not have to wear the product every day, which would be kinder to the skin,” maintains Callaghan. She finds that anyone working in antiperspirant claims knows that there is a “wash-out” period before any study because it can take up to 10 days for the underarm pores to clear of the antiperspirant “plugs.”
Callaghan cities Sanex's Dermo Extra Control deodorant, with which she takes issues with several claims. “Sanex has stretched claims a bit too far, bearing in mind that to get a 48 hour claim, more aluminum salts have been formulated into the product,” she maintains. “And sometimes it is good to have alcohol since it offers extra antibacterial control. There is never enough in a formula to dry the skin.”
Botox-like claims in skin care also come under her scrutiny, especially one made by Marks & Spencer in their Cosmetox products. “Cosmetox is an abbreviated term for cosmetic toxicity and was made even more widespread by Greenpeace!” she says.
Speaking specifically about Lipotec's Argireline (INCI: Water (aqua) (and) Acetyl Hexapeptide-8), used in products claiming Botox-like effects such as InnoBeauty Gmbh's Nanolift Advanced Skin Care, Janson Beckett Cosmeceutical's AlphaDerma CE and Peter Thomas Roth's Unwrinkle Eye, Callaghan is concerned with the implication that these products relax the muscle. “It’s a leap of faith between the Botox-like effect and what is actually happening. It is not to say that these products don’t work, but there is no mechanism or tool that measures the effect these products have on facial muscles,” she adds.