IFSCC Presents the Effectiveness, Economic and Ecological Aspects of Cosmetics

By: Elsa Jungman, University Paris–Sud

Posted: February 14, 2012

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Two morning presenters discussed the effect of surfactants on skin moisturization. Kaori Yanase from Kracie studied the loss of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) due to surfactant use. Skin cleansing experiments were performed on human subjects as well as structural changes of the stratum corneum (SC) in surfactant solution analyzed using X-ray diffraction. A correlation was shown between the loss of NMF and increase in transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Also, cleansing specifically affected the spacing between keratinocytes, and adding N-acetylglucosamine to a surfactant inhibited the elution of NMF and reduced skin roughness due to cleansing.

Shuliang Zhang, PhD, of Unilever discussed a tape stripping method to quantitatively assess the damaging effects of surfactants in cleansers. The objective was to determine how each layer of the SC barrier responds to cleansers under different washing conditions, how the barrier responds to moisturization with lotion and how the NMF content changes concurrently. TEWL was read after tape stripping, and the tape stripping protein content was analyzed after exaggerated washing and repeated normal washing. Results revealed that cleansing with harsh surfactants can have a damaging effect on barrier quality throughout the SC, therefore the optimal skin care regimen should include mild cleansing to avoid barrier damage and maintain skin health.

Actives and Delivery

Actives were the topic in the afternoon on the second day. One presentation introduced hexapeptides to decrease skin inflammation while another focused on increasing the absorption of actives. Cristina Carreño, PhD, of Diverdrugs, presented a new set of hexapeptides with the ability to inhibit PAR-2 activity. The skin receptor PAR-2 plays a pivotal role as a sensor, and its activation increases skin inflammation. This receptor is considered a target in cosmetics and dermatology for the treatment of inflammatory and/or pruritogenic skin conditions, disorders or pathologies. The efficacy of the peptides to inhibit PAR-2 activity was validated in Carreño’s studies.

Yukiko Matsunga of Shiseido then spoke about self-dissolving micro- needles (MN) containing hyaluronic acid. This nonsulfated glycosaminoglycan is composed of repeating disaccharide units of N-acetylglucosamine and glucuronic acid, and plays a key role in water retention in the extracellular matrix. The molecule size of hyaluronic acid prevents this molecule from penetrating the skin; therefore, self-dissolving MNs were used to deliver it into the subcutaneous tissue via a cosmetic mask. This appears to have upregulated hyaluronic acid production by the cutaneous cells, leading to a significant improvement in the appearance of wrinkles. Self-dissolving MNs may therefore have potential as novel cosmetics to increase trans- dermal absorption of active agents and to improve the appearance of wrinkles.

Closing Ceremony

During the closing ceremony, a number of awards were presented. Mastunga was given the IFSCC Conference Award for her presentation on dissolving MNs. Pinky Purohit of Lubrizol received the Maison G. de Navarre Young Scientist Prize, and Theeraya Krisdaphong won the Henri Maso Award for her research of natural anti-acne treatments. The event closed with a dinner, dance and puppet show, as well as a fundraiser to support the Thai population affected by the floods; thoughts of attendees went out to the flood victims. The IFSCC and SCCT worked diligently to make this conference possible, and now the cosmetic industry will now prepare for the 2012 IFSCC Congress in South Africa, which will take place on Oct. 15-18, and will feature beauty and diversity.