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IFSCC Presents the Effectiveness, Economic and Ecological Aspects of Cosmetics
By: Elsa Jungman, University Paris–Sud
Posted: February 14, 2012
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Katagiri, a senior research scientist at Shiseido, identified a new molecule to regulate barrier function. This molecule, the protein serpin B3, is responsible for the inhibition of the denucleation of keratinocytes in the cornification process, which results in the presence of nuclei in the cornified layers of the skin and the subsequent disruption of the barrier function. In response, Shiseido developed a new active, 1-piperidine-propionic acid (1PP), that inhibits the production of serpin B3.
Duangurai of Pramongkut Hospital then described cosmeceuticals as “cosmetics that work as a drug,” meaning they are used for and are as safe as cosmetic products (topical application) but often function as drugs. Cosmeceuticals do not need clinical trials, according to Duangurai, but require safety testing as regular cosmetics do. He noted that cosmeceuticals should have no side effects and should not alter the skin function. He concluded that cosmeceuticals function as drugs due to advances in delivery systems.
Moyal of L’Oréal discussed ways to reduce the concentration of UV filters used in sunscreens while maintaining good photoprotection. She showed how Mexoplex, the company’s combination of UV filters, synergistically enhances UV protection, versus one filter alone. Finally, Nimmannit from the National Nanotechnology Center presented different natural whitening cosmetics, and Kiethankorn from Thai-China Flavours and Fragrances Industry Co., Ltd., rounded out the morning with a presentation on certified organic cosmetics.
Delivery and Formulation
After a buffet-style Thai lunch with a view of the hotel’s garden and fountain, attendees gathered for the afternoon sessions. Gabriele Blume from Sopharcos introduced the innovative delivery system “ophi-Hydro-Tops,” consisting of nanovesicles that are suitable for the encapsulation of hydrophilic and amphiphilic drugs. Compared to liposomes, these vesicles have a higher encapsulation efficacy of amphiphilic substances and acid derivatives.
Alicia Roso from Seppic presented a sensorial evaluation method to measure the soaping effect of cosmetics, i.e., their whitening upon application to skin, to understand the cause of this whitening. Among the tested emulsifiers, sucrose stearate and hydroxystearyl alcohol (and) hydroxystearyl glucoside exhibited suitable non-soaping profiles. While sucrose stearate should be combined with a suitable co-emulsifier or consistency agent to optimize its stability, hydroxystearyl alcohol (and) hydroxystearyl glucoside can be used as the sole emulsifier.