SCC Annual Meeting Provides Insights for the Future

By: Katie Anderson (Schaefer), Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine

Posted: January 6, 2012

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Finally, Gopinathan Menon of Ashland Specialty Ingredients discussed the role of the telomeric protein TRF2 in preventing cellular senescence and associated skin damage. Results of the studies presented indicated this protein stabilizes telomere structure and prevents the loss of genetic material, suggesting is application in future anti-aging treatments.

The morning session was followed by a luncheon. Ken Marenus, PhD, of the Estée Lauder Companies, was presented the SCC’s Merit Award. In addition, Bonda received the Keynote Lecturer Award for his paper on photostabilizing specific anti-aging ingredients. Randy Wickett, PhD, was also given the SCC Certificate of Appreciation for his tenure as the 65th SCC president. Wickett thanked the society for what he described as one of the pinnacles of his career before he announced the 66th president, Joe Dallal of Ashland Specialty Ingredients.

Session E, the last of the sessions, began with a discussion by Tatiana Drovetskaya, PhD, of BASF Corp. on preventing free radicals with the use of UVA filters. Drovetskaya noted that UVA radiation penetrates deeper into the skin than UVB, and that 90% of UV-induced free radicals are caused by UVA radiation. Her team found that a sunscreen formulated with 3.5% zinc oxide (UVA filter) provided a higher radical skin protection factor (RSF) of 7.8 compared to the 2.6 RSF provided by a sunscreen formulated with 6.5% octyl methoxycinnamate (UVB filter). This finding led her to the conclusion that UVB protection is not enough. She listed UVA filters such as bemotrizinol, avobenzone, methoxydibenzoylmethane and bisoctrizole, all of which are not approved in the United States, and added that efficient UVA filters can prevent the formation of two-thirds of free radicals in skin. Drovetskaya also referenced a study that found UVA filters to be better at preventing free radicals than antioxidants; however, she recommended combining the two for complete protection and concluded that the growing market for protective daily wear would benefit from the addition of UVA filters.

Patrick McCarthy, PhD, of ATRP Solutions Inc., followed, introducing attendees to atom transfer radical polymerization (ATRP), a new approach to design polymers for specialized feel in products. The process can use acrylates, methacrylates, styrenes, pyridines, etc., to create various polymer architectures. McCarthy’s company developed a multi- functional polymer to act as a rheology modifier, emulsifier and sensory enhancer in one. He added, “This polymer is shear thinning on steroids,” and showed images of the polymer’s ability to absorb into the skin when incorporated into a lotion versus a value brand lotion and a prestige lotion formulated without the polymer. These lotions were applied to consumer skin and evaluated by the number of swirls needed for their absorption.

Tim Roach from Lubrizol presented a talk on market trends in cleansing products. He noted there is a trend for food-grade preservatives, some of which lower the pH of the formulas and can create formulation issues-but this can be mitigated with the right rheology-modifying polymer, such as acrylates crosspolymer-4 The second trend discussed by Roach was lowering formulation costs by lowering levels of surfactants. Using this tactic, his team utilized acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer to achieve the viscosity desired with lower surfactant levels. Lastly, alternative surfactants were described, which according to Roach, can prove difficult to thicken and can create problems with aesthetics; again, acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer was found to solve these problems.