Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine presents highlights from day one of the New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Suppliers' Day, including technology launches for hair conditioning, PEG-free thickening, eco-friendly manufacturing, photostability and low heavy metal content-pigments, among other trends.
Preceding the opening of Suppliers' Day, Croda hosted its annual press breakfast where it presented its new conditioning compound, Rejuvasoft. This compound combines quaternium-91 with behentrimonium chloride, myristyl myristate and cetearyl alcohol and, according to the company, provides benefits such as performance, value proposition and simplicity for formulators. Formulators need only add water to the compound and heat it, followed by the addition of a preservative and fragrance. The company called the compound "not just another quat" but rather a complete conditioning system. Through testing, the product was found to perform equivalent to a fully formulated conditioner.
During the first day of the show, Evonik presented Antil SPA 80, its solution for formulators seeking PEG-free thickeners. According to the company, this material provides stable viscosity across a broad range of temperatures while boosting sensory, conditioning and foam properties. The company also launched Rewopol SB C 55, a preservative- and sulfate-free sulfosuccinate. This preservative is said to be ideal for mild rinse-off applications such as baby and facial care. In addition, the company noted future plans to use its esterification technology to produce eco-friendly derivatives of butters and oils.
Naturals and photostability were the main focus of The HallStar Company, which highlighted two product solutions at the show—its new naturals platform and its photostabilizing technology. The initial launches under HallStar Naturals will be products that came with its acquisition of Biochemica, although the company plans to expand in this area. John Paro, president and CEO of the company, commented, "We will apply our scientific background to the development of our future naturals." HallStar also featured its newly developed technology to photostabilize retinol, resveratrol and vitamin A. According to Paro, these materials are as photo-unstable as avobenzone and this technology will revolutionize both the skin care and sun care industry not only by protecting skin from the sun, but also by making these materials effective for longer periods of time.
Finally, BASF launched synthetic mica pigments with low heavy metal content. According to Michael Birman, industry manager of effects pigments for BASF, Colipa is expected to launch guidance suggesting that cosmetics contain less than 100 ppm heavy metal. Thus, the company's Chione HD Pigments were developed to contain low amounts of heavy metal, in addition to having high chroma for brightness in cosmetic applications. The pigments are comprised of titanium dioxide-treated synthetic fluorphlogopite and are offered in three white shades and five pigmented shades, all with an average particle size of 14 μ. Birman noted there is an immediate need for the pigment line in lip products, where a portion of the product is ingested.
Many at the show also commented they are waiting for the US Food and Drug Administration to publish the next sun care monograph. According to Mark Miller of BASF, "[The industry] needs a broader palette of sun protection in the United States." Laura Partynski, also of BASF, agreed noting, "The materials are there, we are just waiting for a 'go.' "
These launches, among the numerous others presented, give a sense of the key challenges faced by formulators everyday in the lab and the solutions being developed to face those challenges. Stay tuned as we follow up with highlights from day two of the show.
After a long day, attendees retreated to several social activities, among which was the annual Cosmetics & Toiletries Supplier Cocktail reception, hosted at the Hilton Garden Inn. Guests relaxed and kicked up their feet, mingling with the magazine's staff members. During the evening, associate editor Katie Schaefer and national sales manager Tom Harris presented a check donation to the NY SCC education fund on behalf of Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine and Allured Business Media.