In-Cosmetics Highlights Eco-responsible Cosmetics

By: Katie Schaefer, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine

Posted: April 20, 2011

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Transitioning into ingredient trends, Ibbotson noted that surfactants and conditioning polymers are driving the ingredient market, with emollients following. While Europe and the United States account for 70% of the world’s personal care ingredients, Ibbotson noted that China and India are growing in market share; specifically, emollients have grown in China by 9.5%. Skin lighteners such as arbutin are also growing in China; however, hair fixatives are not gaining ground there. In India, emollients grew by 11%. Regarding the growth in China and India, Ibbotson commented, “Although we get excited about India as a new market, we have to realize that there is a roof in this market due to low disposable incomes.”

According to Ibbotson, the natural and anti-aging trends are driving the growth of the emollients. In China, classic emollients mostly are used, such as caprylic/capric triglyceride, myristyl myristate and isopropyl palmitate. In addition, the use of lanolin is decreasing due to its animal source, even though its sourcing does not harm the animal. Ibbotson added that the natural market has not been affected by the economic downturn. For example, naturals in Europe grew 12% in 2010 and 13% in the United States in 2010. She added that 75% of botanicals are used for anti-aging benefits, followed by anti-inflammatory benefits, skin lightening and microcirculation. Finally, Ibbotson noted that the delivery system market has grown, with nanoparticles comprising half of that market. Ibbotson finished her presentation by adding that it is important to “understand what consumers want and to look at neighboring markets.”

Toward the later part of the last day, Sybille Buchwald-Werner from Vital Solutions gave a presentation in the Marketing Trends Theater on ingredient trends in South Africa. She noted that the personal care market in South Africa was estimated at €2.47 billion in 2007 and has experienced double-digit growth in the time since. She conducted a survey of cosmetic use in the South African area and found that consumers spend an average of 2% of their income on cosmetics. Fragrance was very important in the area, as the women did not shower daily. Also important were natural ingredients, of which the women recognized oils more than extracts.

Special Sections

The Innovation Zone showcased a number of ingredients launched by suppliers. Among them were: Nicoment (INCI: Menthyl Nicotinate (and) Menthol) a vasodilating, cooling ester based on the nicotinic radical by B.C. Cosmetic and Food; a nonionic surfactant based on organic certified coconut fatty acids by Cremer Care, CremerCOOR PG4 Coco (INCI: Polyglyceryl-4 Cocoate); a melanin by Lipo Chemical designed to shield the skin from the high energy blue/violet visible light that ages skin, Liposhield HEV Melanin (INCI: Melanin), which is described in "A Melanin Derivative to Shield the Skin from High Energy Visible Light," an article in the March 2011 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine ; and a highly concentrated liquid phospholipid compound by Lipoid comprised of sunflower, bio-ethanol and mixed tocopherol, Phosal 40 IP, among others. This area on the show floor also featured live ingredient demonstrations from suppliers, in addition to Anti-Aging Around the Globe, stations of recently launched personal care products arranged by continent for Europe, North America, Asia and Latin America. The products were available in their designated stations for attendees to touch, smell or peruse ingredient listings.

The show's In-Focus feature also highlighted the theme “Sustainable Beauty,” with a number of suppliers presenting their environmentally responsible processing methods and ingredients in the zone. Croda featured green personal care formulations created using Blue Technology, its concept of exploiting cold processing to create a more eco-reponsible formulation. IBR Ltd. was also present to discuss the sustainable manufacturing of edelweiss by cultivating the flower’s cells in a laboratory for use in serum. The most prominent feature at the zone was Beraca’s showcase of the sustainable journey of the açai berry from cultivation in the fields, to plant production and formulation into Kiehl’s finished Açai Collection.

Awards Reception