Polymers for Rheology and Conditioning in Hair and Skin

Dec 19, 2011 | Contact Author | By: Katie Schaefer
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Title: Polymers for Rheology and Conditioning in Hair and Skin
  • Article

DKSH’s Performance Materials business unit has collaborated with a polymer manufacturer to launch two polymer lines to its Luna range of products. Luna-mer, is a line of rheology modifiers while Luna-care is a range of conditioning polymers can be used as standard materials or can be individually customized according to each formulator’s need.

Luna-mer is a line of pre-neutralized rheological modifiers and emulsifying-thickening polymers used in a wide variety of personal care applications. They can be added at any time in processing under hot or cold temeratures under very moderate shear. The polymers offer thickening, suspending (due to high yield value), stabilizing and emulsifying (oil droplets are held in the hydrated polymer network) properties. 

The polymers are offered in four versions: liquid thickener (LT ), a ready-to-use liquid (Luna-mer 50 LT (INCI: Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7); concentrated liquid thickener (CLT), a concentrated (57% polymer), ready-to-use liquid (Luna-mer 10 CLT (INCI: Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Hydrogenated Polydecene (and) Trideceth-6), Luna-mer 20 CLT (INCI: Acrylamide/Sodium Acrylate Copolymer (and) Mineral Oil (and) Trideceth-6), Luna-mer 40 CLT (INCI: Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer (and) Mineral Oil (and) Trideceth-6), Luna-mer 12 CLT (INCI: Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Mineral Oil (and) Trideceth-6), Luna-mer 37 CLT (INCI: Polyquaternium-37 (and) Mineral Oil (and) Trideceth-6) and Luna-mer 37 CLT G (INCI: Polyquaternium-37 (and) Propylene Glycol Dicaprate/Dicaprylate (and) Trideceth-6); thickener powder (TP), a 100% active polymer powder (Luna-mer 10 TP (INCI: Sodium Polyacrylate), Luna-mer 40 TP (INCI: Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer) and Luna-mer 37 TP (INCI: Polyquaternium-37)); and washed powder (WP), a transparent gel formulation (Luna-mer 10 WP (INCI: Sodium Polyacrylate) and Luna-mer 37 WP (INCI: Polyquaternium-37).

 

The rheology modifiers can be used to formulate highly stable o/w emulsion regardless of the oil type and the HLB value, and in many cases in a wide range of pH values. Emulsions can be made at RT with low shear process. The line imparts a non-greasy and non-sticky after feel. Their particular rheology profile aids in spreading high viscous products. The line is recommended at 0.2-4.0% in skin care and hair care products.

Luna-care is a line of water-soluble polymers mostly based on diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (DADMAC) monomer chemistry, although some also include dimethyl aminoethylmethacrylate (DMAEMA), acrylamide (AM), vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and acrylic acid (AA) chemistry. These cationic-charged polymers form a uniform,  protective film on hair and skin. In hair care, they form a film to coat and protect hair, reducing static and flyaway, improving wet and dry combability, increasing shine and improving softness. In hair styling, they form a non-tacky and continuous film with good curl retention performance and enhance setting properties. In skin care, they improve spreadability while imparting a soft, velvety and non-greasy after feel.

Polymers offered in the line include: Luna-care C6 (INCI: Polyquaternium-6) a 40% active, highly cationic, DADMAC polymer in the form of a viscous liquid; Luna-care C6 F (INCI: Polyquaternium-6), a 40% active, highly cationic, DADMAC polymer in the form of a viscous liquid; Luna-care C6 P (INCI: Polyquaternium-6), a 100% active, highly cationic, DADMAC polymer in powderform;  Luna-care C7 (INCI: Polyquaternium-7), a 9% active, cationic, DADMAC/AM polymer in viscous liquid form; Luna-care C7 F (INCI: Polyquaternium-7), a 9% active, cationic, DADMAC/AM polymer in viscous liquid form; Luna-care C7 P (INCI: Polyquaternium-7) a 100% active, cationic, DADMAC/AM polymer in powder form; Luna-care C11 (INCI: Polyquaternium-11), a20% active, moderate cationic, VP/DMAEMA polymer in viscous liquid form; and Luna-care C22 (INCI: Polyquaternium-22), a 40% active, amphoteric, DADMAC/AA polymer in viscous liquid form.

The line is recommended at 0.3-5% depending on the application and the required effect.