A Diester to Protect Hair from Color Fade and Sun Damage

May 1, 2009 | Contact Author | By: Timothy Gao, PhD, Jung-Mei Tien, Abhijit Bidaye, Scott Cardinali and Jena Kinney, Croda Inc.
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Title: A Diester to Protect Hair from Color Fade and Sun Damage
diesterx colorfadex tryptophan degradationx hair fiber integrityx broad-spectrum UV filterx
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Keywords: diester | colorfade | tryptophan degradation | hair fiber integrity | broad-spectrum UV filter

Abstract: A new broad-spectrum UV filter to protect hair from color fading and integrity damage, quaternium-95 (and) propanediol, has been developed for rinse-off formulations. Shampoos and conditioners containing this material protected dyed hair against surface tryptophan degradation and tensile strength reduction.

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Like skin, hair is susceptible to damage from exposure to the sun. This damage affects its aesthetics and mechanical and physical properties, resulting in dull, flat hair. Research indicates that both UVA and UVB radiation are responsible for this damage. Hoting,for example, studied hair tresses dyed red by exposing them to UVA and UVB radiation, finding that the tresses underwent more fading after UVA irradiation.

Artificial hair color based on pyrazole intermediates also has shown significant fading after shampoo washing and UV exposure.Hoting thus concluded that exposure to UVA radiation resulted in a significant and perceivable change in the dyed red hair color. According to his research, the red pigment introduced into the hair fiber by the dyeing process acts as a photoreceptor, absorbing photons and photochemically degrading after UVA and visible light irradiation.

The effects of UVB radiation on hair also can be severe, resulting in the breakdown of disulfide bonds both inside the hair fiber and on the surface of the cuticle.3 Such disruptions to the disulfide linkages of the hair fiber can have a major impact on hair’s mechanical properties, resulting in the loss of tensile strength and an increase in porosity and irregularities on the hair surface.

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Table 2. Conditioner test formulations

 Table 2. Conditioner test formulations

Figure 1. Absorption spectrum of the diester solution

 Figure 1. Absorption spectrum of the diester solution

Figure 2. Effects of the diester vs. control shampoo on medium auburn hair

Figure 2. Effects of the diester vs. control shampoo on medium auburn hair

Figure 3. medium auburn different shampoos

 Figure 3. Total color changes of medium auburn

Figure 4. Effects of the diester vs. control shampoo on medium brown hair

 Figure 4. Effects of the diester vs. control shampoo on medium brown hair

Figure 5. Total color change of medium brown with different shampoos

 Figure 5. Total color change of medium brown with different shampoos

Figure 6. Effects of the diester vs. control conditioner for medium auburn color

 Figure 6. Effects of the diester vs. control conditioner for medium auburn color

Figure 7. Change in tryptophan intensity

 Figure 7. Change in tryptophan intensity

Figure 8. Change in tensile strength

 Figure 8. Change in tensile strength

Figure 9. Change in tensile strength after conditioner

 Figure 9. Change in tensile strength after conditioner

Gao Sun Damage footnotes

a ChromAveil (INCI: Quaternium-95 (and) Propanediol) is a product of Croda Inc.

b The Atlas Ci300+ Xenon Weather-Ometer is a product of Atlas Material Testing Solutions, International Hair Importers

c LabScan XE Spectrocolorimeter is a product of HunterLab.

d Spex FluoroLog-3 is a instrument manufactured by Horiba Jobin Yvon.

e Miniature Tensile Tester (MTT) 670 is a product of Dia-Stron Ltd.

Formula 1. Shampoo test formulations

 Formula 1. Shampoo test formulations

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