Regulatory bodies require quantifiable, photostable UVA protection for sunscreens, and zinc oxide (ZnO) provides such protection, as well as a long history of safety in sunscreens and cosmetic applications. Groups such as the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the Therapeutic Goods Association (TGA) also have approved ZnO for use as a UV active ingredient in OTC sunscreens. Furthermore, ZnO has Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS) status, is the only ingredient recognized by the FDA as providing both UVA and UVB protection, and is defined by the FDA as a Category I skin protectant, inferring that it can be used safely on compromised or environmentally challenged skin.
However, a drawback to formulating with ZnO is its white appearance on skin, which creates low cosmetic acceptability and marketability. This whiteness is caused by the back-scattering of light from submicron sized ZnO particles in sunscreen formulas. By reducing the ZnO particles to nanometer size (< 100 nm), product developers have successfully decreased this scattering and developed transparent formulations but such formulas are limited to approximately 5% w/w ZnO content.
Recent FDA regulations require the quantification of UVA protection in sunscreens as well as labeling that specifies the level of UVA/ UVB protection provided by a product. In addition, proposed regulations in Australia may soon require sunscreens to provide a minimum level of UVA protection. While these new regulations are not concerned with transparency, effective sunscreens developed to meet these requirements must be transparent to be marketable.
Transparency is critical in beach and daily wear products but it holds even greater importance in liquid foundations. Increasingly, formulators are combining ZnO and titanium dioxide (TiO2) in makeup foundations to impart added UV protection, thus supporting sun care claims. However, darker colored foundations with sun protection benefits are difficult to achieve due to the skin whitening caused by conventional inorganic filters. Considering these needs, in the present article, the authors describe a micron-sized ZnO dispersion to enable transparent formulations using higher levels of ZnO for effective sun protection, as shown by transmission spectroscopy and SPF testing.