An Aquaporin-inspired Lipid Concentrate for Mature Skin

Apr 1, 2008 | Contact Author | By: M. Farwick, B. Santonnat, P. Lersch, K. Korevaar, Evonik; A.V. Rawlings, AVR Consulting Ltd.; S. Grether-Beck, K. Medve-Koenigs and J. Krutmann; University Dusseldorf GmbH
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Title: An Aquaporin-inspired Lipid Concentrate for Mature Skin
stratum corneumx ceramidesx SAXDx RT-PCRx mature skinx
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Keywords: stratum corneum | ceramides | SAXD | RT-PCR | mature skin

Abstract: The authors describe a novel multi-lamellar concentrate based on ceramide technology and newly identified cell-signalling molecules. This skin-identical blend provides skin protection benefits and is shown to increase molecular markers for water management and barrier components that decline during aging, thus improving skin barrier function, moisturization and elasticity.

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Dry, thin and sagging skin is among the most common complaints of women over the age of 50. This is due to reduced protective, preventative and regenerative aspects of aged skin. Aged skin is manifested by reduced stratum corneum (SC) moisturization, and although transepidermal water loss (TEWL) is known to be normal or improved with age, the epidermal barrier repair capacity after removing the superficial layers of the barrier by tape stripping is significantly impaired.

Electron microscopy studies have shown a decreased size and number of keratohyalin granules (KHGs), the repository of profilaggrin in the keratinocytes, in aged skin. In this respect, reduced SC natural moisturizing factors (NMF) have been observed due to reduced amounts of profilaggrin-rich KHGs.2 Equally, abnormal intercellular lipid lamellae occur in aged skin, accompanied by a reduction in the levels of SC ceramides and especially ceramide EOS-linoleate. This is a result of the reduced lipid synthetic capacity of the epidermis that occurs during aging.

Further epidermal changes that occur with aging include the premature expression of involucrin4 and the decline in transglutaminase-1 and filaggrin levels. These changes can impact SC formation and maturation.

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Ceramide Key

 Ceramide Key

Figure 1. SAXD

 Figure 1. SAXD

Figure 2. Effect of the topical application

 Figure 2. Effect of the topical application

Figure 3. Bioengineering study

 Figure 3. bioengineering study

Farwick An Aquaporin footnotes

 a Skinmimics (INCI: ceteareth-25 (and) glycerin (and) cetyl alcohol (and) behenic acid (and) cholesterol (and) ceramide EOP (and) ceramide EOS (and) ceramide NP (and) ceramide NS (and) ceramide AP (and) caprooyl-phytosphingosine (and) caprooyl-sphingosine) is a product of Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH, Essen, Germany.

b The Opticon 1 monitor is a device from MJ Research, Waltham, MA, USA.
c The Tewameter TM300 is a device from Courage and Khazaka, Cologne, Germany.
d The Corneometer CM825 is a device of Courage and Khazaka.
e The Cutometer MPA 580 is a device of Courage and Khazaka.
 

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