- Active (465)
- Anti-irritant (114)
- Antimicrobial (91)
- Antioxidant (18)
- Colorant/Pigment/Hair Dye (93)
- Conditioner/Moisturizer (243)
- Delivery (153)
- Exfoliant (11)
- Feel Enhancer (174)
- Film-former (11)
- Formulating Aids (131)
- Fragrance (72)
- Preservatives (71)
- Repair (96)
- Rheology/Viscosity Modifier (86)
- Surfactant/Emulsifier (132)
- UV Filter (105)
Build a solid foundation in science, formulation and product development—find out more!
Most Popular in:
Chicory Oligofructosans for Barrier Recovery
Posted: May 16, 2012
Silab recently introduced a vitamin D-like active to repair skin. According to the company, the synthesis of vitamin D and its specific receptor VDR decrease with age and reduced UV exposure, weakening the skin's barrier function. In fact, a decrease of 29% in VDR levels has been reported in aged human keratinocytes, compared with young keratinocytes. Thus, Vederine (INCI: Not Provided) was designed to activate the signaling pathways regulated by VDR and stimulate the gene network that controls differentiation, cornification and desquamation processes.
The restructuring active is rich in oligofructosans such as KLF4, Cytokeratin 1, Involucrin, Cystatin E/M and KLK5 from chicory root (Cichorium intybus), which enable mature skin to recover optimum epidermal barrier functioning without UV exposure. Tested at 1% on aged human keratinocytes, the product significantly increased VDR synthesis by 32%. In addition, it produced an effect similar to that produced by calcitriol, the active form of vitamin D. Further, pre-treatment of aged keratinocytes with 0.5% of the product resulted in a significant increase in epidermal thickness and filaggrin synthesis, thereby improving the capacity of aged human keratinocytes to form a stratified functional epidermis.
Finally, in comparison to a placebo, 3% of the ingredient significantly decreased transepidermal water loss by 14.3%, as shown by seven days of twice daily treatment with sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), and by 16.9%, as shown by 14 days of the same treatment. This effect was noted in 70% of volunteers.