Bioactive Proliposome-coated Mica for Facial Powders

Mar 1, 2012 | Contact Author | By: Malyn Chulasiri, PhD, Better Way (Thailand) Co., Ltd and S&J International Enterprises PCL; and Pawinee Santiparaphop and Veerawat Teeranachaideekul, PhD, S&J International Enterprises PCL
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Title: Bioactive Proliposome-coated Mica for Facial Powders
proliposomex liposomex micax skin carex activesx facial powderx
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Keywords: proliposome | liposome | mica | skin care | actives | facial powder

Abstract: The article discusses the preparation of proliposome-coated mica harboring bioactives from plant origin that have skin whitening and lightening effects. The treated mica is incorporated into facial powder for skin-smoothing, -moisturizing and -lightening properties, which are evaluated here.

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M Chulasiri, P Santiparaphop and V Teeranachaideekul, Bioactive proliposome-coated mica for facial powders, Cosm & Toil 127(3) 180-186 (Mar 2012)

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Mica is a naturally occurring silicate mineral. It is a fine, off-white and pearly powder and in cosmetics, it is used to impart a shiny and transparency appearance to products. This is due to the fact that mica adheres well to skin and reflects light, making skin appear more luminous. Therefore, it is the main ingredient applied in facial powders, especially those that are transparent.

Found in many women’s makeup bags, facial powder is one of the most essential cosmetic products. It is generally available in two forms, loose and pressed, and may provide full or transparent coverage. Full-coverage powders predominantly contain talc (hydrated magnesium silicate) with other covering substances including titanium dioxide, kaolin, magnesium carbonate, magnesium stearate, zinc stearate and cornstarch to increase opaqueness. Some of these ingredients may also provide additional functions. For example, magnesium carbonate can improve oil blotting, keep the powder fluffy and absorb any added perfume; kaolin (hydrated aluminium silicate) may help absorb oil and perspiration. Today’s transparent powders are based on the same formula as full-coverage powders but include less talc and covering pigments. Instead, their light, shiny appearance is produced by nacreous pigments such as mica, bismuth oxychloride, titanium dioxide-coated mica or crystalline calcium carbonate.

The main purpose of facial powder is to improve the appearance of skin, and the application of powder tends to be an easy and fast way to cover complexion imperfections, absorb grease and oils, and give a smooth, matte finish to the face. Due to this convenience, facial powder was chosen as the product form into which proliposome-coated mica without bioactives (PCM) and with bioactives (PCMB) were incorporated, to provide skin care benefits beyond camouflage effects.

The article discusses the preparation of proliposome-coated mica harboring bioactives from plant origin that have skin whitening and lightening effects. The treated mica is incorporated into facial powder for skin smoothing, moisturizing and lightening properties, which are evaluated here.

Excerpt Only This is a shortened version or summary of the article you requested. To view the complete article, please log in or create an account. Registration is Free!

This is an excerpt of an article from GCI Magazine. The full version can be found here.

 

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Table 1. Studied botanical extracts

Table 1. Studied botanical extracts

In the present study, hop cone and myrobalan fruit extracts, which are evidenced to have antioxidant activity and claimed to have skin whitening and lightening potential,4–7 were loaded into proliposomes.

Table 2. Particle sizes of PCM and PCMB, in comparison with non-coated mica

Table 2. Particle sizes of PCM and PCMB, in comparison with non-coated mica

The particle sizes and size distributions of non-coated mica, PCM and PCMB were 11.232 μm, 12.763 μm and 20.130 μm, respectively; with the SPAN value of 1.841, 2.252 and 2.282, respectively.

Figure 1. Particle size distribution

Figure 1. Particle size distribution

Particle size distribution of liposome dispersions,; green = without bioactives and red = with bioactives

Figure 2. Particle images of liposomes without and with bioactives (1000X)

Figure 2. Particle images of liposomes without and with bioactives (1000X)

Under the light microscope, liposome dispersions with and without bioactives were both detected to be spherical.

Figure 3. SEM images of a) non-coated mica and b) PCMB (10,000X)

Figure 3. SEM images of a) non-coated mica and b) PCMB (10,000X)

Under SEM, the difference between PCM and non-coated mica was difficult to detect. PCMB was differentiated visually from non-coated mica, as shown here; proliposomecoated mica with bioactives = PCMB.

Figure 4. Skin moisturizing effect on subjects’ forearms (*p < 0.05)

Figure 4. Skin moisturizing effect of PCM compared with non-coated mica and the control on subjects’ forearms (*p < 0.05)

The moisture content of skin to which PCM was applied increased significantly, compared with the application of non-coated mica and the untreated area that served as the control (p < 0.05).

Figure 5. SEM images of the fifth strip taken from the forearm

Figure 5. SEM images of the fifth strip taken from the forearm

SEM images of the fifth strip taken from the forearm: a) with non-coated mica and b) with PCMB (10,000X); proliposome-coated mica with bioactives = PCMB. The PCMB-applied forearm shows the liposomal particles in stratum corneum.

Figure 6. Sensory profile

Figure 6. Sensory profile

Sensory profile of non-coated mica and PCMB facial powders for each usability evaluation parameter; proliposome-coated mica with bioactives = PCMB

Figure 7. Film smoothness

Figure 7. Film smoothness

Film smoothness from applications of non-coated mica and PCMB on artificial black skin and human forearm; proliposome-coated mica with bioactives = PCMB

Figure 8. Lightening efficacy

Figure 8. Lightening efficacy

Lightening efficacy of PCMB facial powder after application on the face twice daily, compared with before application (week 0) (* p < 0.05)

Footnotes [Chulasiri 127(3)]

a Pro-Lipo Duo (INCI: Lecithin (and) Ethyl Alcohol (and) Glycerol) is a product of Lucas Meyer, France.

b Wonderlight (INCI: Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Strobile) is a product of Sederma, France.

c SJ Chubulia (INCI: Terminalia Chebula Fruit Extract) is a product of SJI, Thailand.

d The Mastersizer 2000 is manufactured by Malvern Instruments, UK.

e The Olympus CX31 is manufactured by Olympus, Japan.

f Sericite GMS-4C is a product of Kinsei Matec, Japan.

g The Büchi-B290 mini spray dryer is manufactured by Büchi, Switzerland.

h The TM-3000 SEM is manufactured by Hitachi, Japan.

j The Corneometer CM 820 is manufacturered by CK Electronic, Germany.

k Bio Skin Plate is manufactured by Beaulax, Japan.

m The Chromameter CR 400 is manufactured by Konica Minolta, Japan.

Formula 1. PCM, PCMB and non-coated mica facial powder

Methicone-coated Talc 52.48% w/w
PCM, PCMB or Non-coated Mica 20.00
Titanium Dioxide  7.00
Aluminium Starch Octenylsuccinate 3.50
Nylon-12 2.50
Polymethyl Methacrylate 2.00
Magnesium Stearate 1.50
Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499) 1.65
Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Barium Sulfate 1.00
Boron Nitride 0.50
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 3.00
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 3.00
Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate 0.50
Squalane 0.50
Caprylyl Glycol 0.80
Fragrance (parfum) 0.05
Tocopherol 0.02
  100.00

 

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