Testing Polysilicone-19 for Hair Conditioning and UV Protection Claims

May 1, 2008 | Contact Author | By: Sascha Herrwerth, Holger I. Leidreiter, Uta Kortemeier, Christian Hartung, Burghard Grüning and Sahar Fakhry-Smith
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Title: Testing Polysilicone-19 for Hair Conditioning and UV Protection Claims
UV protectionx color protectionx hair dye protectionx cationic siloxane copolymerx conditioningx
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Keywords: UV protection | color protection | hair dye protection | cationic siloxane copolymer | conditioning

Abstract: Polysilicone-19, a new cationic siloxane copolymer for rinse-off shampoos and conditioners, is shown here to protect dyed hair against UV fading and damage and to provide a conditioning effect.

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Modern hair treatments have to fulfill technical requirements and high emotional demands. While data on hair combing, tensile strength or fatigue testing are common to support technical claims, the market success of a product is essentially determined by fulfilling those emotional characteristics that are claimed in the advertisement.

In hair care, these emotional aspects are determined mainly by feel and appearance. Both of these parameters are difficult to assay directly by objective methods; they must be scored by sensory assessment and can be supported by a combination of various technical investigations.

In this study, the appearance of hair tresses was evaluated by color measurements, fiber tensile strength and keratin degradation parameters. The type of damage selected for testing purposes was irradiation by ultraviolet/visible (UV/VIS) light, simulating the sun.

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Figure 1. Schematic structure

 Figure 1. Schematic structure

Figure 2. Confocal laser scanning

 Figure 2. Confocal laser scanning

Figure 3. Traces of tested UV absorber

Figure 3. Traces of tested UV absorber 

Semi-, Demi- and Permanent

 Semi-, Demi- and Permanent

Figure 3. Effect of HeαKG on ATP production in 3T3 (n = 3)

Figure 3. Effect of HeαKG on ATP production in 3T3 (n = 3)

This difference in the use of the supplied HEαKG is also indicated by the results of the ATP assay (see Figure 3).

Figure 4. Protection offered by tested UV

Figure 4. Protection offered by tested UV 

Figure 5. Color fading of hair tresses

 Figure 5. Color fading of hair tresses

Figure 6. Sensory scores of hair tresses

Figure 6. Sensory scores of hair tresses 

Herrwerth: Testing Polysilicone-19 footnotes

 a ABIL UV Quat 50 (INCI: Polysilicone-19) is 

a product of Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH, Essen, Germany. ABIL is a registered trademark.
b Escalol HP-619 (INCI: Dimethypabamidopropyl laurdimonium tosylate (and) propylene glycol stearate) is a product of International Specialty Products.
c Crodasorb UV-HPP (INCI: Polyquaternium-59 (and) butylene glycol) is a product of Croda International Plc.
d Solamer GR 8 (INCI: Polyamide-2) is a product of Nalco Co.
e Parsol SLX (INCI: Polysilicone-15) is a product of DSM Co.
f Poly Brillance, number 868, grenadine, Schwarzkopf&Henkel
g Garnier Movida, number 27, grenadine, L’Oréal
h Hoenle sun simulator SOL2, Dr. Hoenle AG, Graefelfing, Germany
k MTT670, Diastron, Andover, UK
m CIE-L*a*b* Colorimeter, Dr. Lange, Dusseldorf, Germany

Formula 1. Shampoo

 Formula 1. Shampoo

Formula 2. Rinse-off conditioner

Formula 2. Rinse-off conditioner

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