Polyquaternium-74: An Advanced Hair Conditioning Polymer

Mar 1, 2008 | Contact Author | By: Eric Leroy, Rhodia Research
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Title: Polyquaternium-74: An Advanced Hair Conditioning Polymer
polyquaternium-74x shampoox hair conditioningx dimethicone emulsionx natural lookx hair shinex
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Keywords: polyquaternium-74 | shampoo | hair conditioning | dimethicone emulsion | natural look | hair shine

Abstract: Polyquaternium-74 is a synthetic high performance conditioning polymer whose flocculation and deposition characteristics enable it to match or outperform traditional conditioning polymers in detangling, overall hair conditioning, shine enhancement and buildup reduction when combined, as shown here, with a submicron dimethicone emulsion. Benefits are noted for 2-in-1 shampoo formulations.

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When using a hair conditioning product such as a shampoo, consumers expect their hair to be cleansed, repaired and nourished. But they also expect their hair to be soft and shiny, with volume and a light feel. In a word, consumers expect hair to look natural.

Shampoo formulations have evolved throughout the past decades, from simple cleansing and foaming bases with poor hair conditioning performance, to fairly sophisticated systems containing a variety of surfactants combined with one or more conditioning polymers and a silicone agent.

While the inclusion of silicones in shampoo has been common since the 1990s, many limitations have prevented a more widespread use of these effective systems. Current challenges are the ability to deposit conditioning actives effectively on different types of hair, such as damaged/oxidized and virgin zones, while enabling desired adjustments to the overall sensorial experience of hair management during and after shampoo. Among the conditioning and delivery polymers introduced recently in the cosmetic industry is polyquaternium-74 (PQ-74), whose physicochemical properties and hair surface modification abilities are described in this article.

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Table 1. Influence of secondary and tertiary surfactants

 Table 1. Influence of secondary and tertiary surfactants 

Table 2. Effect of selected conditioning polymers

 Table 2. Effect of selected conditioning polymers 

Figure 1. Flocculation profiles

 Figure 1. Flocculation profiles

Figure 2. Polyquaternium-74

 Figure 2. Polyquaternium-74

Figure 3. Half-head panel evaluation

 Figure 3. Half-head panel evaluation

Figure 4. Half-head panel evaluation

 Figure 4. Half-head panel evaluation

Figure 5. Buildup of polyquaternium-74 and other polymers

 Figure 5. Buildup of polyquaternium-74 and other polymers 

Figure 6. Buildup of dimethicone with selected conditioning polymers

 Figure 6. Buildup of dimethicone with selected conditioning polymers 

 

Figure 7. Dimethicone rinsability

 Figure 7. Dimethicone rinsability 

Polyquaternium-74 footnotes

 a Polycare Boost (INCI: Water (aqua) (and) dimethicone (and) polyquaternium-74 (and) laureth-7) is a product of Rhodia Novecare. Polycare is a registered trademark of Rhodia Novecare.

b Diastron is a registered trademark of Dia-Stron Limited, Andover, Hampshire, UK.

c Supplied by International Hair Inc., Florence, S.C., USA.

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