A 'Green" Microemulsion for Improved Conditioning Performance of Shampoos

May 1, 2009 | Contact Author | By: Matthias Hloucha, Hans-Martin Haake and Guadalupe Pellón, Cognis GmbH
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Title: A 'Green" Microemulsion for Improved Conditioning Performance of Shampoos
shampoox hair carex performancex microemulsionx renewablex ethoxylate- and sulfate-freex
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Keywords: shampoo | hair care | performance | microemulsion | renewable | ethoxylate- and sulfate-free

Abstract: In the present article, a renewable ingredient microemulsion is formulated that is free from ethoxylates and sulfate groups. Used as an additive, the material boosts the conditioning performance of shampoos and improves wet-combing performance by affecting phase separation. In addition, base formulas for standard and “green” shampoos are discussed.

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Consumers are more and more interested in living a “green” lifestyle and have come to understand the impact of the products they use on society, the environment and on themselves. Despite this eco-friendly consciousness, however, consumers are generally unwilling to sacrifice product performance; thus, they seek eco-conscious products that provide the same or better performance levels.

Naturally sourced ingredients offer formulators innovative possibilities to develop products that fulfill these consumer expectations by combining performance benefits with environmental compatibility. Modern consumers expect more than one function from a cosmetic product. For example, shampoo should have an appealing appearance—i.e., it should be clear or pearlescent—with good cleansing and hair conditioning properties as well as fast foam generation.

A pearlescent appearance can be achieved by adding well-known pearlescent agents such as glycol distearate; cleansing and foam performance are dominated by the surfactant system, which is usually a synergistic combination of two or more surfactants such as fatty alcohol ether sulfate, cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) and alkyl polyglucoside (APG)a.

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Table 1. Residual Wet-combing Work for Standard Shampoos with Added Microemulsion

 Table 1. Residual Wet-combing Work for Standard Shampoos with Added Microemulsion

Table 2. Residual Wet-combing Work for ‘Green’ Benchmark Shampoo with Microemulsion

 Table 2. Residual Wet-combing Work for ‘Green’ Benchmark Shampoo with Microemulsion 

Table 3. Residual Wet-combing Work for Formula 2 with Microemulsion

 Table 3. Residual Wet-combing Work for Formula 2 with Microemulsion

Figure 1. Phase diagram for a fixed water content of 60%

 Figure 1. Phase diagram for a fixed water content of 60%

Figure 2. Clear, eco-friendly microemulsion

 Figure 2. Clear, eco-friendly microemulsion 

Figure 3. On dilution during washing

 Figure 3. On dilution during washing

Figure 4. Transmittance versus dilution curves for shampoos

 Figure 4. Transmittance versus dilution curves for shampoos

Figure 5. The wet-combing performance was determined using an automated system.

 Figure 5. The wet-combing performance was determined using an automated system. 

Figure 6. Residual wet-combing work

 Figure 6. Residual wet-combing work 

Hloucha A ‘Green’ Microemulsion

a APG is a registered trademark of Cognis GmbH. It is also a commonly used abbreviation for alkyl polyglucoside in the personal care industry and beyond, and it is in that common use sense that it appears in this article.

b Plantasil Micro (INCI: Dicaprylyl Ether (and) Decyl Glucoside (and) Glyceryl Oleate) is a product of Cognis GmbH, Monheim, Germany. 

c The experimental setup used, T50, is from Mettler Toledo in Germany.

Formula 1. Shampoo with microemulsion

 Formula 1. Shampoo with microemulsion

Formula 2. Eco-friendly shampoo with microemulsion

 Formula 2. Eco-friendly shampoo with microemulsion 

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