Sucrose Ester Multilamellar Emulsifiers for Skin Moisturization
By: My Trinh Luu and Michel Mercier, MMP Inc., and Paul Thau, PaCar Tech
Posted: September 29, 2010, from the October 2010 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.
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Article Keywords:
- natural emulsifiers
- sucrose esters
- fatty alcohols
- lamellar liquid crystals
- moisturization
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Sucrose esters are well-known natural emulsifiers and while they are desired for their mildness and safety, they also are relatively expensive when compared with other emulsifiers. Accordingly, they have not been used as widely as they might at lower costs. In response, the authors have developed1 an emulsifier system comprising a mixture of ethylene oxide-free sucrose esters used at low levelsa to improve their cost-effeciency. This blend is shown to form multi-lamellar liquid crystalline networks that impart various benefits including skin moisturization, assessed here. Further, most cosmetic compositions prepared with the blend can be formulated with minimal regard to HLB due to the emulsion stabilization provided by multilamellar liquid crystals, which minimize emulsion coalescence.
Lab Practical: Formulating with SEMLEs
- This blend is ethylene oxide-free and thus environmental friendly.
- The material produces emulsions with sustained moisturizing effects.
- Emulsions employing the technology are water-resistant.
- The blend can be used to form hydrates that produce emulsions at RT.
- Emulsification is independent of the HLB system.
- The blend is thixotropic with a self-bodying effect.
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