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Bench & Beyond: Using Phase Diagrams to Follow Fragrance in an Emulsion

By: Bud Brewster
Posted: January 2, 2006, from the January 2006 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

What happens when you put fragrance into an emulsion? How will it affect the emulsion? What controls how the fragrance will be released? How can you design a formulation that achieves the desired formulation characteristics and fragrance release?

In its simplest form, a fragrance emulsion is a turbid, relatively stable mixture of fragrance with other components, usually water and surfactant.  Two ingredients such as oil and water that are insoluble in each other can be made soluble/dispersible in each other through the effect of a surfactant, producing an emulsion with at least two phases or a microemulsion with only one phase.