Delivery Systems and Ingredients on the Rise

Aug 24, 2015

Delivery systems and ingredients in personal care were valued at US $345,287.3 thousand in 2014, and this ingredient category is expected to grow to $543,373.2 thousand by 2020.

'Improved Antioxidant Penetration': Letter to the Editor

Apr 24, 2014Steven Abbott, PhD, Steven Abbott TNCF Ltd., UK

A recent Letter to the Editor calls to question some details in the logic presented in an April 2014 Cosmetics & Toiletries article.

Berg + Schmidt Launches Lecithin Fractions for Skin Compatibility

Oct 15, 2013

Berg & Schmidt has introduced a range of phosphatidylcholine (PC) fractions of lecithin from either soy or sunflower that can be used to manufacture liposomes, nanoemulsions, oleogels or formulations that are physiologically related to skin.

Swellable, Nanoporous Organosilica for Extended and Triggered Release

Oct 1, 2013Paul L. Edmiston, PhD, ABS Materials Inc.

Nanoporous organosilica particles were developed to swell upon the addition of organic solvents. These are evaluated here for encapsulating and controlling the release of fragrance. Slower, continuous release was observed, suggesting their ability to extend sensory benefits. In addition, the stimulated release of encapsulated lidocaine was studied, and results implicate their use to deliver cosmetic actives.

Smart Materials for Triggered Release of Cosmetics

Jul 1, 2013Steven Isaacman, PhD, Nanometics LLC; and Michael Isaacman, University of California Santa Barbara

Smart polymers can be engineered to contain reactive molecules, commonly dubbed “molecular switches,” that respond to external stimuli and cause systemic changes to the polymer structure. The specificity of a molecular switch to a single stimulus is critical for controlled release, although multi-triggered systems capable of responding to systematic stimuli are being developed for advanced applications. Herein the authors describe several stimuli-responsive materials that have potential applications for personal care and related biomedical fields.

Formulation Fantasies: A Discussion

Jul 1, 2013Jonathan Hadgraft and Majella E. Lane, University College London

Numerous claims made in the popular press misrepresent the facts about formulations, and cosmetic science is not well-served by this. Here, the authors examine a number of such statements. The influence of skin creams and formulations on the penetration of actives must be communicated in a responsible manner to the public if the industry is to banish prevalent myths.

Saccharide Isomerate to Deeply Hydrate Skin and Scalp

Sep 1, 2012Jochen Klock, PhD, and Volker Rosenberger, PhD, DSM Nutritional Products Ltd.

Saccharide isomerate, designed to closely resemble a carbohydrate complex found in human stratum corneum, is shown here to provide up to 72 hr of deep hydration to skin and, for the first time, rinse-off soothing to the scalp. Its unique binding mechanism to skin and scalp create new opportunities for leave-on and rinse-off products.

Delivering Actives via Solid Lipid Nanoparticles and Nanostructured Lipid Carriers: Part IV, Absorption and Formulations

May 1, 2012Eliana B. Souto, PhD, and Johann W. Wiechers, PhD

In this fourth part of a five-part series discusses the percutaneous absorption of actives loaded into solid lipid SLNs and NLCs and their formulation in dermal cosmetics.

Review of Pseudopeptidic Compounds for Biocompatible Gels

Apr 1, 2012Santiago V. Luis, PhD; M. Isabel Burguete, PhD; Vicente Martí-Centelles; and Jenifer Rubio, PhD Department of Inorganic and Organic Chemistry, University Jaume I, Castellón, Spain

Simple pseudopeptides derived from natural amino acids can be designed and prepared as efficient gelators for a variety of solvents, and with a high potential for biocompatibility. The appropriate selection of structural components, reviewed herein, shows how to produce gels with tailored properties, including high thermal stability.

Delivering Actives via Solid Lipid Nanoparticles and Nanostructured Lipid Carriers: Part III, Stability and Efficacy

Mar 1, 2012Johann W. Wiechers, PhD, JW Solutions; and Eliana B. Souto, PhD, University Fernando Pessoa

Part I of this review on Solid Lipid Nanoparticles (SLNs) and Nanostructured Lipid Carriers (NLCs) discussed the differences of these two delivery systems for cosmetic actives, as well as their production methods and selection criteria for constituents. In Part II, the characterization of these nano-sized particles was considered. In Part III, presented here, their stability and efficacy are considered; Part IV will address their application in cosmetics.

Delivering Actives via Solid Lipid Nanoparticles and Nanostructured Lipid Carriers: Part II, Nanoparticle Characterization

Jan 1, 2012Johann W. Wiechers, PhD, JW Solutions; and Eliana B. Souto, PhD, University Fernando Pessoa

The characterization of SLN or NLC nano-sized particles is considered. There are, in principle, four different types of chemicals in an SLN or NLC that have different influences: an active ingredient, which can degrade; lipids that influence particle size, crystallization and morphology; surfactants that influence agglomeration; and finally, water.

Protection of Retinol in Organosilica Microparticles

May 1, 2011Kim S. Finnie, PhD; and Chris Barbé, PhD, Ceramisphere Pty., Ltd.

In this article, retinol encapsulated in organosilica microparticles (12–14% w/w) having an average particle size of 0.3 micron are shown in a 40-day test period to exhibit enhanced stability to oxidation when compared with similar commercial stabilized retinol products.

Nanoemulsions vs. Emulsions in the Delivery of Coenzyme Q10 and Tocopheryl Acetate

Apr 1, 2011Thanaporn Amnuaikit, Wiwat Pichayakorn and Prapaporn Boonme, Prince of Songkla University

This article compares the ability of mixed emulsifier nanoemulsions and polysorbate 60 emulsions to deliver coenzyme Q10 and tocopheryl acetate into the skin. In vitro skin penetration data shows that in newborn pig skin, nanoemulsions can deliver higher amounts of both actives than emulsions.

Formulating for Delivery From Elastomeric Nonwoven Substrates

Apr 1, 2011Stacy A. Mundschau, Scott W. Wenzel and Barbara J. Dvoracek, Kimberly-Clark Corp.

When developing moisturizers intended for application via nonwoven substrates, formulators must consider the hydrophobic oils, the affinity of those oils to the substrate, the add-on to the substrate and the stability of the compositions on the substrate. With these considerations, moisturizing formulations were developed and coated onto laminated substrates whose moisturization efficacies were evaluated as described here.

Delivering Actives via Solid Lipid Nanoparticles and Nanostructured Lipid Carriers: Part I

Oct 1, 2010Johann W. Wiechers, PhD, JW Solutions, and Eliana B. Souto

This first of a four-part series on SLNs and NLCs describes the differences between the two types and their delivery capabilities. The terms solid lipid nanoparticles and nanostructured lipid carriers are not very useful to distinguish these two delivery systems since both are solid, both are lipids, both are nanoparticles, and both are carrier systems. The only real difference between the two is the purity of the single lipid used in SLNs or multiple lipids used, i.e. one solid and one liquid, in NLCs. This factor has an enormous impact on the crystallinity of the lipid phase, which subsequently influences the loading capacity of the system for encapsulated active ingredients or API.

Environmentally Responsive Nanoparticles for Delivery as Assessed via Light Scattering and Near-infrared Imaging

Sep 1, 2010Andrew Harper; Steve Tonge, PhD; Lisa Makein, PhD; Mike Kaszuba, PhD; and Malcolm Connah, PhD, Malvern

Lipid-based nanoparticles were developed to respond to environmental stimuli and used as site-directed delivery systems. Through Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS), the self-assembly of these 10–40 nm particles was observed. In addition, the penetration of the particles through the stratum corneum was monitored in vivo using a novel Near-infrared Chemical Imaging (NIR-CI) technique.

Controlled-release Mechanisms of Fragrances

Aug 1, 2010Nitika U. Bhargava, Vijayanand P. Magar and Shamim A. Momin, Institute of Chemical Technology

Fragrances are volatile and susceptible to oxidation, and can escape from a finished product over time. This limited longevity has led to the development of encapsulation and controlled-release techniques. The present article reviews methods for controlling the release of fragrance in personal care products, and describes their mechanisms of action.

Dendrimersomes for Ingredient Delivery

Jul 1, 2010Katie Schaefer, Cosmetics & Toiletries

According to Virgil Percec, PhD, a professor at the University of Pennsylvania, dendrimers are the answer to the stable, effective delivery of drugs and cosmetic actives to the skin. Percec’s team has researched the fundamentals of dendrimers for years but more recently published work on using dendrimers to deliver drugs, cosmetic ingredients and other materials to the skin.

Clinical Relevance of Topical Active Delivery Systems in Cosmetics

May 1, 2009Haw-Yueh Thong, MD, MS, Dnational Taiwan University Hospital and Howard I. Maibach, MD, University of California

Depending on a drug or cosmetic ingredient’s intended target, topical delivery systems are broadly categorized as either transdermal drug or dermal drug/cosmetic. Transdermal drug delivery (TDD) is the controlled release of drugs through intact skin to obtain therapeutic levels systematically and to affect specified targets for specific purposes such as contraception, among others.

Nanotechnology and Skin Delivery: Infinitely Small or Infinite Possibilities?

Jan 1, 2009

Nanoparticles have been defined as single particles with a diameter less than 100 nm,4 which includes titanium dioxide in transparent, inorganic sun care products, and is usually extended to 200 nm to include the zinc oxide in those products. But nanoparticles are only a subset of nanomaterials, which can also include cyclodextrins and liposomes.

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