Liposomes are effective penetration enhancers, according to Cosmetochem, which is using them to carry standardized botanical extracts to the skin in its Liposome Herbasec range. The liposomes are freeze dried in dispersions and reform when dispersed in water, re-encapsulating the concentrated plant extract.
The phospholipids reportedly allow the penetration of plant actives into the deeper layers of the epidermis without the use of solvents. This particular range encompasses five extracts that have been standardized for specific phytochemicals. Specifically, white tea and green tea were standardized for caffeine and polyphenols while white hibiscus was standardized for fruit acids; in addition, guarana was standardized for caffeine and aloe vera to be free of aloin.
White hibiscus (INCI: Maltodextrin (and) Hibisicus Sabdariffa (Hibiscus) Extract (and) Lecithin) exhibits astringent, cleansing and softening properties. Meanwhile, guarana (INCI: Maltodextrin (and) Paullinia Cupana (Guarana) Extract (and) Lecithin) can serve anticellulite, astringent or hair follicle stimulation functions. Green tea (INCI: Maltodextrin (and) Camellia sinensis (Green Tea) Extract (and) Lecithin) acts as an antioxidant, free radical scavenger, anti-inflammatory agent, astringent of circulatory stimulant in personal care products.
Products for sensitive, mature and blemished skin can be treated with aloe vera (INCI: Maltodextrin (and) Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Extract (and) Lecithin), which has wound-healing, emollient, anti-inflammatory, UV protectant and soothing properties. Similarly, blemished, mature and sensitive skin care also be treated with white tea (INCI: Maltodextrin (and) Camellia Sinensis (White Tea) Extract (and) Lecithin), which exhibits antioxidant, free radical scavenger, anti-inflammatory, astringent, antibacterial, circularory stimulant, diuretic and haemostatic properties.
The range can be formulated in a variety of personal care products. The dispersions are composed of plant-derived raw materials from renewable sources, can be formulated up to 5.0% and should be diluted in water before addition to a formulation.