Compass: Getting Into Skin

By: Rachel L. Chapman, Cosmetics & Toiletries

Posted: December 1, 2006, from the December 2006 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

Research investigating the pathways into and out of the Stratum corneum has led ingredient innovation across the industry. Nanosized particles carrying antiaging actives, for example, are designed to penetrate deep; whereas potentially irritating ingredients are formulated only to graze the skin’s surface.

As the properties of various ingredients are examined, a clearer understanding of their effects creates new opportunities to formulate specialized products. For example, the benefits and potential risks of nanotechnology were the focus of a recent meeting organized by the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA). The meeting examined the effects of products formulated using nanotechnology because of their smaller size and different properties on skin. These properties could potentially lead to scientific advances such as new drug formulations or routes of delivery to previously inaccessible sites in the body.

This issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine explores nanomeans to penetrate the skin, advises on formulating for sensitive skin, and describes nanoencapsulation to extract and release fragrance.

G. Guglielmini describes techniques used to measure emulsion droplets on the nanometer scale. These techniques demonstrated the ability of a new emulsifier to form nanosize droplets without using synthetic surfactants.

Also in relation to skin sensitivity, J. Davis and R.R. Wickett explore research in this area including findings that nerve growth factor could be an underlying mechanism and predictive tool for sensitive skin. In addition, T. Schoenberg presents alternatives to chemists facing the growing trend to replace alcohol sulfates in formulations.