Cosmetic Carriers for Visual Effect

Feb 24, 2009 | Contact Author | By: Katie Schaefer
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Title: Cosmetic Carriers for Visual Effect
  • Article

Induchem AG has introduced cosmetic carriers comprised of lactose or mannitol, cellulose, HPMC and pigments of synthetic or mineral origin that are loaded with an active cosmetic ingredient.  Unipheres are available in two size ranges, 500–900 µm and 1000–1500 µm. They are sold in colors such as black, white, yellow, red and blue, and are loaded with various vitamins, coenzyme Q10 and salicylic acid. Customized versions are enriched with special effects such as glitter.

Natural Unispheres are based on bamboo derived cellulose and xylitol. The standard versions are available in white, green, ocher and a terracotta bead and are available in two sizes. They can be customized with a variety of colors and special effects, but to maintain the natural characteristic, additional ingredients and /or pigments should be eco-certified. According to the company, these spheres do not leave any residue on the skin. The spheres are a spherical matrix and not an encapsulation; therefore, the solubility of the ingredient to be incorporated is of utmost importance. Active ingredients that need to be entrapped should be lipohilic and only slightly water-soluble, such as liposoluble vitamins and plant derived actives.

Bi-color Unispheres are high loaded beads with a white coating. The white coating allows the incorporation of a highly pigmented bead in a white cream. The use of these bi-color beads allows for a bronzing effect; with application of  the cream on the skin, a bronzing effect appears progressively without leaving any residue behind. This bronzing effect evens out the skin tone and can also be combined with a self-tanner to improve the shade of the tan.

The spheres can be used in both clear formulations such gels, shampoos, liquid soaps, antiperspirants, deodorants and emulsions as cleansers, creams and lotions and hair conditioners. Formulas should have sufficient viscosity to keep the beads suspended, usually with the aid of common thickeners or in high viscosity emulsions. The spheres can take several hours to soften in the formula. They should be added towards the end of the manufacturing process using a mixing system with low shear stress. The spheres soften best in formulas with at least 30% water and are typically used at 0.5–3% in finished products.