Solabia utilized polyphenols to create the two actives that it will launch at in-cosmetics 2013, a quercetin derivative to protect skin from oxidative stress and a berry juice to inhibit sebum oxidation.
Resistress (INCI: Not Provided) is a bio-botanical complex of polymerized quercetin derivatives that was shown ex vivo to inhibit Kelch-like ECH-Associated Protein 1 (KEAP1), a cellular signal linked to the Nrf2 transcription factor, which combats both oxidative stress and the inflammatory response. The active has been also been found to stimulate cellular communication, delivering a regenerating message to keratinocytes and fibroblasts from the skin's superficial layer. The efficacy of of the active has been validated in vivo. It can be used in formulations at 0.5% and conforms to Ecocert and Chinese regulations.
To complement the regulation of sebum secretion in anti-acne products, Solabia has created a berry juice that inhibits sebum oxidation, which is responsible for the oxygen rate decrease that induces bacterial proliferation of Propionibacterium acnes. Seboxyl (INCI: Not Provided) is an organic juice pressed from the leaves of Ribes nigrum (blackcurrant) and Rubus idaeus (raspberry) bushes, stabilized with organic glycerin. Rich in polyphenols, molecules well-known for their antioxidizing, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, these leaves are complementary due to their levels condensed tannins (OPC) and hydrolysable tannins. This alternative anti-acne strategy has an upstream effect on the resultant inflammatory response generated by microbial stress, thereby preventing the appearance of imperfections and improving skin. The anti-acne ingredient conforms to Ecocert and Chinese regulations.