Addressing Melanin and Irritation for an Even Skin Tone

Addressing Melanin and Irritation for an Even Skin Tone

January 29, 2013 | By: Katie Schaefer
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Title: Addressing Melanin and Irritation for an Even Skin Tone
  • Article

Laboratoires Expanscience has processed schizandra berries to create an active that soothes redness and irritation while decreasing melanin synthesis for a more even complexion. Sweetone (INCI: Saccharide Hydrolysate (and) Maltodextrin) is a result of the enzymatic hydrolysis of dried and defatted schizandra berries.

After freeze-drying, a stabilized powder on an organic maltodextrin carrier is obtained that is free of preservatives. The result is a dry, water-soluble extract with a composition of peptides, sugars and hydroxyl-acids.

The extract soothes skin by modulating inflammation and slowing the proliferation of endothelial cells. It modulates inflammation by reducing the release of IL-1β and vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) by keratinocytes.

In addition, it modulates melanogenesis by reducing the quantity of melanin produced and reducing the dendricity of melanocytes. The dendricity of melanocytes is affected through the extract’s inhibition of PGE2, a lipid inflammation mediator that stimulates the dendricity of melanocytes to increase the transfer of melanocyte melanin to the keratinocytes. This natural extract is recommended at 0.1-0.5% in formulations and is Ecocert certified.