Recent in Formulating Aids (page 3 of 4)

Microchannel Processing: A Novel Approach to Making Emulsions

In the present article, microchannel emulsification is explored as a process method that precisely adds a dispersed phase into a continuous phase through an engineered dispersion plate. This approach is shown to produce emulsions with smaller droplets having tighter size distributions than conventional means, which leads to stable products with the limited need, if any, for surfactants.

Simple Solutions

this issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine features articles that suggest how the right tweaks to some fundamental variables can improve formulations. O’Lenick and Lott, for instance, discuss how solvents can impact SPF values and describe a new ester to improve sunscreen efficacy

Polysorbate 20

Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate (INCI: Polysorbate 20), is a ubiquitous nonionic surfactant employed in the formulation of countless cosmetic and personal care products.

A Hydrophilic Silicone Elastomer for Broader Formulating Flexibility

Silicone elastomers for personal care have evolved from cross-linked silicone polymers in silicone fluid carriers, to materials with broader organic compatibility in organic solvents. Recently, hydrophilic properties have been added, which are shown here to enable the incorporation of high levels of water, polar solvents and actives while maintaining organic compatibility and unique sensory characteristics.

Benefits of Borneo Camphor-derived Hydrotropes for 'Natural' Formulations

Alpha-pinene, typically derived from pine trees, is also a by-product of the paper manufacturing process. The material is a source of low-toxic and naturally based isobornyl ethers, from which a new hydrotrope, dipropylene glycol isobornyl ether, was developed.The present study examines the unique dispersion and solubility properties of this material, among other benefits, and its application in cosmetics.

Photostabilization of Retinol and Retinyl Palmitate by Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene

This study examines the photostability of retinol and retinyl palmitate, finding they break down rapidly when exposed to UV radiation in the 290–400 nm range. This severely reduces their concentrations in finished formulations. However, when combined with ethylhexyl methoxycrylene, these retinoids are shown to be protected against photodegradation, thus preserving their concentrations both during the manufacturing process and following application to the skin.

Formula Troubleshooting: Acrylate-based Thickening

Acrylate-based ingredients have been modified over the past decades, and their benefits are increasingly evident in many industries outside of cosmetics, such as paints, coatings, inks, textiles, etc.

Low-surfactant Emulsification: Optimizing Formulas and Conserving Resources*

Understanding the process variables that occur during emulsion manufacturing can assist formulators in preventing production inconsistencies as well as selecting the most effective surfactant blend for a given purpose. This in turn reduces the amount of surfactant required without affecting emulsion quality or stability, thus saving resources and even improving product quality, as the present article describes.

Polymers in Personal Care

Polymer use began in the 1800s with cellulose derivatives, the vulcanization of rubber, and styrene synthesis; but in reality, it started more than four million years ago with the formation of DNA and proteins. Polymers are a diverse class of chemistry. By definition, they are large molecules made up of chains or rings of linked monomer units—simple reactive building blocks. Smaller molecules or monomers are combined to form polymers that possess a characteristic chain structure of multiple repeating units that can be related or different.

Characterizing Nanoemulsions Prepared by High Pressure Homogenization Under Various Emulsifying Conditions

The present study examines formulations prepared using similar oil fractions and differing emulsifier systems and process parameters to determine why their behaviors differ. Results showed that ethoxylated emulsifier systems were the most stable, and that beyond a certain number of cycles, high pressure homogenization did not significantly improve the quality of the product.

Organic Cranberry and Cherry Waters for Personal Care from Gattefossé

Gattefossé is focusing on red fruit for its launches at in-cosmetics 2013. The company will add cherry and cranberry waters to its Original Extracts line of vegetal waters, which now complies with the COSMOS standard.

Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters to Potentiate Glycerin Moisturization

Hydrolyzed jojoba esters were incorporated into formulas including a lotion, hand sanitizer and nonwoven wipes. Small, well-controlled clinical studies were then conducted to compare the formulas with or without glycerin. Results show the esters can potentiate the skin moisturizing effect of glycerin under varying formula conditions. A mechanism of action also is discussed.

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