Recent in Formulating Aids (page 3 of 9)

Photostabilization of Retinol and Retinyl Palmitate by Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene

This study examines the photostability of retinol and retinyl palmitate, finding they break down rapidly when exposed to UV radiation in the 290–400 nm range. This severely reduces their concentrations in finished formulations. However, when combined with ethylhexyl methoxycrylene, these retinoids are shown to be protected against photodegradation, thus preserving their concentrations both during the manufacturing process and following application to the skin.

Low-surfactant Emulsification: Optimizing Formulas and Conserving Resources*

Understanding the process variables that occur during emulsion manufacturing can assist formulators in preventing production inconsistencies as well as selecting the most effective surfactant blend for a given purpose. This in turn reduces the amount of surfactant required without affecting emulsion quality or stability, thus saving resources and even improving product quality, as the present article describes.

Polymers in Personal Care

Polymer use began in the 1800s with cellulose derivatives, the vulcanization of rubber, and styrene synthesis; but in reality, it started more than four million years ago with the formation of DNA and proteins. Polymers are a diverse class of chemistry. By definition, they are large molecules made up of chains or rings of linked monomer units—simple reactive building blocks. Smaller molecules or monomers are combined to form polymers that possess a characteristic chain structure of multiple repeating units that can be related or different.

Characterizing Nanoemulsions Prepared by High Pressure Homogenization Under Various Emulsifying Conditions

The present study examines formulations prepared using similar oil fractions and differing emulsifier systems and process parameters to determine why their behaviors differ. Results showed that ethoxylated emulsifier systems were the most stable, and that beyond a certain number of cycles, high pressure homogenization did not significantly improve the quality of the product.

Organic Cranberry and Cherry Waters for Personal Care from Gattefossé

Gattefossé is focusing on red fruit for its launches at in-cosmetics 2013. The company will add cherry and cranberry waters to its Original Extracts line of vegetal waters, which now complies with the COSMOS standard.

Study Finds Growing Demand in US for Natural Polymers

A report by the Freedonia Group Inc. has forecasted US demand for natural polymers to grow 6.9% annually to US $4.6 billion in 2016.

A Hydrophilic Silicone Elastomer for Broader Formulating Flexibility

Silicone elastomers for personal care have evolved from cross-linked silicone polymers in silicone fluid carriers, to materials with broader organic compatibility in organic solvents. Recently, hydrophilic properties have been added, which are shown here to enable the incorporation of high levels of water, polar solvents and actives while maintaining organic compatibility and unique sensory characteristics.

Boron Nitride Functional Fillers for Cosmetics

EMD Chemicals' performance materials division has launched a line of boron nitride functional fillers for cosmetics.

Polyacrylate-33 for Thickening and Suspending in Low Surfactant Cleansers

Described herein is a hydrophobically-modified acrylic copolymer, polyacrylate-33, which is designed for low-to-medium surfactant-containing cleansers. The ingredient is shown to display high thickening efficiency and good suspension properties and shear-thinning rheology in sulfate-based and sulfate-free chassis. Further, it enables transparent formulations in the presence of salt with improved foaming and sensorial properties.

PIT Versus PIF for the Rational Formulation of Emulsions

This article deliberately pushes the boundaries for cosmetics scientists, showing how the much-used phase inversion temperature (PIT) technique is a limiting special case of a more versatile, rational approach to surfactant optimization: HLD-NAC. This simple way of understanding the basic interactions within emulsion formulations can be generalized to create totally new ways of formulating stable emulsions.

Formula Troubleshooting: Acrylate-based Thickening

Acrylate-based ingredients have been modified over the past decades, and their benefits are increasingly evident in many industries outside of cosmetics, such as paints, coatings, inks, textiles, etc.

Hybrid Silicone Powders for Oil Absorption in Cosmetics

Shin-Etsu Silicones of America, a US subsidiary of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co. Ltd., has added two oil-absorbing spherical powders to its KSP line of hybrid silicone powders. The line combines a silicone rubber core with a with a silicone resin shell to provide feel and visual benefits to cosmetic formulations.