Formulating Aids

Swallowfield Debuts Aerosol Body Butter Technology

Jul 30, 2014

Swallowfield plc has developed an aerosol spray for body butters, believed to be the first of its kind.

Silicone Glycerol Emulsifier for Multi-functional, PEG-free Cosmetics

May 28, 2014

Dow Corning has launched its ES-5600 Silicone Glycerol Emulsifier, a water-in-oil emulsifier with diglycerol hydrophilic functionality that enables exceptional performance in polyethylene glycol (PEG)-free systems.

Optimizing Formula Efficacy at C&T Summit

Apr 8, 2014

Numerous tools are available to the cosmetic scientist to evaluate and optimize the efficacy of his/her cosmetic treatment. During the Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit, Roger McMullen will present a hands-on workshop exploring approaches to do just this. Register now—space is limited.

Gel Network Fundamentals at C&T Summit

Mar 26, 2014

Gel networks are at the base of many modern skin care products and hair conditioners, and their formulation is fairly straightforward. During the Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit, George Deckner and Anthony J. O'Lenick, Jr., will present, in hands-on formulation workshops, the practical aspects of gel network-based o/w emulsions for skin and hair care.

Evonik Solubilizes Lipophilic Ingredients in Water-based Formulations

Mar 12, 2014

At in-cosmetics in Hamburg, Evonik will unveil its naturally derived solubilizer for lipophilic and natural oils. TEGO Solve 61 is a PEG-free solubilizer developed for the incorporation of lipophilic components into water-based formulations.

Dr. Straetmans Introduces Solubilizer for Water-based Products

Feb 11, 2014Katie Anderson, Cosmetics & Toiletries

At in-cosmetics in Hamburg, Dr. Straetmans is launching the second generation of PEG-free solubilizers.

Isopentyldiol for Improved Sensory, Formulation and Manufacturing Benefits

Jan 13, 2014Luigi Rigano, PhD, and Nicola Lionetti; Rigano Industrial Consulting and Research, Milan, Italy

A novel safe hydrotrope and wetting agent with exceptional skin feel is evaluated here for its solvent power and versatility in cosmetic formulas. Key features examined are sensory properties, hair feel modification and improvement of foam performance in skin cleansers.

A Hydrophilic Silicone Elastomer for Broader Formulating Flexibility

Nov 1, 2012

Silicone elastomers for personal care have evolved from cross-linked silicone polymers in silicone fluid carriers, to materials with broader organic compatibility in organic solvents. Recently, hydrophilic properties have been added, which are shown here to enable the incorporation of high levels of water, polar solvents and actives while maintaining organic compatibility and unique sensory characteristics.

Formula Troubleshooting: Acrylate-based Thickening

Aug 1, 2012

Acrylate-based ingredients have been modified over the past decades, and their benefits are increasingly evident in many industries outside of cosmetics, such as paints, coatings, inks, textiles, etc.

Polyacrylate-33 for Thickening and Suspending in Low Surfactant Cleansers

Aug 1, 2012Monique Adamy, Anne-France Leron, Charles Phan and Pascal Hervé, Rhodia

Described herein is a hydrophobically-modified acrylic copolymer, polyacrylate-33, which is designed for low-to-medium surfactant-containing cleansers. The ingredient is shown to display high thickening efficiency and good suspension properties and shear-thinning rheology in sulfate-based and sulfate-free chassis. Further, it enables transparent formulations in the presence of salt with improved foaming and sensorial properties.

PIT Versus PIF for the Rational Formulation of Emulsions

Aug 1, 2012Steven Abbott, PhD, Steven Abbott TCNF Ltd. and University of Leeds

This article deliberately pushes the boundaries for cosmetics scientists, showing how the much-used phase inversion temperature (PIT) technique is a limiting special case of a more versatile, rational approach to surfactant optimization: HLD-NAC. This simple way of understanding the basic interactions within emulsion formulations can be generalized to create totally new ways of formulating stable emulsions.

Troubleshooting Microemulsion Systems

Oct 1, 2011Peter Tsolis, The Estee Lauder Companies; and Christopher Heisig, PhD, Steris Corp.

Microemulsions have long assisted the pharmaceutical industry in delivering efficacious levels of an active ingredient to the skin by enhancing the active’s bioavailability, versus traditional solutions and dispersions.

Deciphering Chelating Agent Formulas

Jul 1, 2011Eric S. Abrutyn, TPC2 Advisors Ltd.

The mechanism for chelation, described as a chelate complex, is based on multiple bonding (polydentate ligand) around a single central atom.

Simple Solutions

Jun 1, 2011Rachel Grabenhofer, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine

this issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine features articles that suggest how the right tweaks to some fundamental variables can improve formulations. O’Lenick and Lott, for instance, discuss how solvents can impact SPF values and describe a new ester to improve sunscreen efficacy

Microchannel Processing: A Novel Approach to Making Emulsions

Jun 1, 2011Mark Grace, Velocys Inc. and Larry Plonsker, Chemical Network Associates

In the present article, microchannel emulsification is explored as a process method that precisely adds a dispersed phase into a continuous phase through an engineered dispersion plate. This approach is shown to produce emulsions with smaller droplets having tighter size distributions than conventional means, which leads to stable products with the limited need, if any, for surfactants.

Polysorbate 20

Apr 1, 2011Mike Fevola, Johnson & Johnson

Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate (INCI: Polysorbate 20), is a ubiquitous nonionic surfactant employed in the formulation of countless cosmetic and personal care products.

Photostabilization of Retinol and Retinyl Palmitate by Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene

Jan 1, 2011Craig Bonda and Jean Zhang, The HallStar Company

This study examines the photostability of retinol and retinyl palmitate, finding they break down rapidly when exposed to UV radiation in the 290–400 nm range. This severely reduces their concentrations in finished formulations. However, when combined with ethylhexyl methoxycrylene, these retinoids are shown to be protected against photodegradation, thus preserving their concentrations both during the manufacturing process and following application to the skin.

Benefits of Borneo Camphor-derived Hydrotropes for 'Natural' Formulations

Dec 1, 2010Gloria Pagnutti; Marco Riva, MD; and Luigi Rigano, PhD, Rigano Industrial Consulting and Research; and Robert Gick, CABB GmbH

Alpha-pinene, typically derived from pine trees, is also a by-product of the paper manufacturing process. The material is a source of low-toxic and naturally based isobornyl ethers, from which a new hydrotrope, dipropylene glycol isobornyl ether, was developed.The present study examines the unique dispersion and solubility properties of this material, among other benefits, and its application in cosmetics.

Low-surfactant Emulsification: Optimizing Formulas and Conserving Resources*

Aug 1, 2010T. Joseph Lin, PhD

Understanding the process variables that occur during emulsion manufacturing can assist formulators in preventing production inconsistencies as well as selecting the most effective surfactant blend for a given purpose. This in turn reduces the amount of surfactant required without affecting emulsion quality or stability, thus saving resources and even improving product quality, as the present article describes.

Polymers in Personal Care

Jul 1, 2010Eric Abrutyn, TPC2 Advisors Ltd., Inc.

Polymer use began in the 1800s with cellulose derivatives, the vulcanization of rubber, and styrene synthesis; but in reality, it started more than four million years ago with the formation of DNA and proteins. Polymers are a diverse class of chemistry. By definition, they are large molecules made up of chains or rings of linked monomer units—simple reactive building blocks. Smaller molecules or monomers are combined to form polymers that possess a characteristic chain structure of multiple repeating units that can be related or different.

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