Polymers in Personal Care

By: Eric Abrutyn, TPC2 Advisors Ltd., Inc.

Posted: June 28, 2010, from the July 2010 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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Surfactants: examples are PEG-X, PEG-X/PPG-Y, PVP and natural-derived, such as potassium alginate and chitosan lauroyl glycinate;
Surface modifiers, viscosity modifiers/gellants/thickeners: such as PEG-15 glyceryl stearate, acrylates copolymer, acrylates/C_10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, sodium polyacrylate and C_8-22 alkyl acrylate/butyl dimethicone methacrylate copolymer).
Commercial example: Bioré Men’s Double Hydra Action Gel Facial Wash: Water (aqua), sorbitol, lauryl hydroxysultaine, lauric acid, laureth-6 carboxylic acid, potassium hydroxide, myristic acid, ethylhexylglycerin, acrylates/C_10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, palmitic acid, phenoxyethanol, disodium EDTA, fragrance (parfum), PEG-65M, pullulan.

Controlled release: e.g. acrylates copolymer;
Exfoliants: including aluminum silicate, polyethylene powder or spheres and ethylene/acrylic copolymer;
SPF sunscreens and boosters: such as polyester-7, polyamide-2 and polysilicone-15.
Commercial example: Avon Sun+: Water (aqua), ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, benzophenone-3, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, butylene glycol, glycerin, PEG-8, polyester-7, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, cetearyl alcohol, ceteth-20 phosphate, tromethamine, dimethicone, caprylyl glycol, decyl glucoside, carbomer, dicetyl phosphate, glyceryl stearate, phenoxyethanol, trimethylsiloxysilicate, cholesterol, acrylates/C_10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, fragrance (parfum), hexylene glycol, xanthan gum, Aloe barbadensis extract, panthenol, Punica granatum fruit juice, tocopheryl acetate, Lupinus luteus extract, Triticum vulgare germ extract, Prunus amygdalus dulcis extract, Linum usitatissimum extract.

Carriers: Include cetereth-20 and PEG-8/SMDI copolymer.
Commercial example: Oriflame Nature Kiwi & Orange Boosting Shampoo: Water (aqua), sodium laureth sulfate, sodium chloride, cocamidopropyl betaine, fragrance (parfum), polyquaternium-7, benzophenone-4, sodium citrate, limonene, Actinidia chinensis fruit extract, propylene glycol, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, glycerin, PEG-8, Citrus aurantium dulcis extract, PEG-8/SMDI copolymer, palmitoyl myristyl serinate, sodium polyacrylate.
Foamer/foaming agents: e.g. vinylpyrrilidone/vinylimidazole copolymer; and
Dispersant, coupling agents: such as C_20-40 pareth-10 and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil.
Commercial example: LaScad Narta Freshissime Antiperspirant Roll-on: Water (aqua), alcohol denat., aluminium chlorohydrate, fragrance (parfum), PPG-26-buteth-26, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, linalool, geraniol, alpha-isomethyl ionone, limonene, hydroxyethylcellulose, citronellol, menthoxypropanediol, hexyl cinnamal, butylphenyl methylpropional.

Summary
Polymers have become more complex and this has taxed the clear identification of the resultant composition. However, these evolving technologies have allowed for more focused functional polymers that meet specific needs in hair care, skin care, underarm applications and cleansers. As the science becomes more sophisticated, so does the methodology in determining correlations between physical properties and benefits.

The present paper aims to improve the formulator’s understanding as to which polymer works best for a particular application and how to best utilize its unique properties and benefits. If the past is an indicator of the future, the industry can assume that polymers will become more complex as the science of processing them becomes more mainstream. This will continue to tax the capabilities of INCI to name them and for the formulator to properly sort out which may provide the best and most economical choice to support the targeted goal of the formula. Reproduction of the article without expressed consent is strictly prohibited.