Tetrapeptide Targets Epidermis Cohesion

Jan 1, 2008 | Contact Author | By: G. Pauly, MD; P. Moussou, PhD; J.-L. Contet-Audonneau, MD; C. Jeanmaire, PhD;O. Freis, PhD; M. Sabadotto; L. Danoux; V. Bardey, PhD; I. Benoit; and A. Rathjens, PhD, Cognis France, Division de Laboratoires Sérobiologiques
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Title: Tetrapeptide Targets Epidermis Cohesion
glycosaminoglycansx proteoglycansx syndecan-1x agingx type XVII collagenx
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Keywords: glycosaminoglycans | proteoglycans | syndecan-1 | aging | type XVII collagen

Abstract: Most antiaging products claim to act on the dermis; however, the epidermis, a key element of cutaneous aging, is often forgotten. In the present study, researchers selected an acetylated tetrapeptide for its effect on epidermis cohesion, triggered by activity on syndecan-1 and collagen XVII; these effects are confirmed in vivo.

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Actives proposed for skin care generally are focused on wrinkle prevention—but another sign of aging is fragile skin. During aging, the epidermis becomes thinner, the cohesion of the epidermal cells diminishes and the epidermis loses its resistance to environmental aggressors. The skin becomes dry and slack and consequently is easily damaged even with the lightest friction or shock.

To enhance epidermal cohesion, Laboratoires Sérobiologiques has developed an antiaging active designed to target two proteins that affect epidermis cohesion: syndecan-1 and type XVII collagen.

Syndecan-1

In the skin, proteoglycans (PG) and glycosaminoglycans (GAG) are present not only in the extracellular matrix of the dermis, but also in the epidermis. Syndecans represent the major form of PG synthesized by the epidermis with syndecan-1, a small PG with a MW <60,000 da, located in supra-basal layers of the epidermis. Syndecan-1 plays an important role in keratinocyte activation during wound healing.1 In addition, it has diverse functions including the regulation of cell signaling such as by fibroblast growth factors, participation in cell-to-cell and cell-to-laminin adhesion,2 and in the organization of cell matrix adhesion. According to Carey,3 syndecan-1 may link the intracellular cytoskeleton to the interstitial matrix. 

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Figure 1. Variation of syndecan-1 expression in the epidermis with aging

 Figure 1. Variation of syndecan-1 expression in the epidermis with aging 

Figure 2. Visualization

 Figure 2. Visualization

Figure 3. Schematic representation of the hemidesmosome structure

 Figure 3. Schematic representation of the hemidesmosome structure 

Figure 4. Chemical structure of AcTP11

 Figure 4. Chemical structure of AcTP11

Figure 5. Effect of AcTP11

 Figure 5. Effect of AcTP11

Figure 6. Effect of AcTP11 on the syndecan-1

 Figure 6. Effect of AcTP11 on the syndecan-1

Figure 7. Quantification of AcTP11

 Figure 7. Quantification of AcTP11 

Figure 8. Visualization of AcTP11

 Figure 8. Visualization of AcTP11

Figure 9. Curve of skin deformation

 Figure 9. Curve of skin deformation 

Figure 10. Evolution of cutaneous relief

 Figure 10. Evolution of cutaneous relief

Pauly Tetrapeptide fotnotes

 a SYNiorage (INCI: Glycerin (and) acetyl tetrapeptide-11) is a product of Cognis

b Primary polyclonal rabbit antibody antihuman syndecan-1, SC-5632, was obtained from Tebu, France; also, secondary sheep antibody anti-rabbit—FITC, was obtained from BIO-RAD, France.

c Primary polyclonal rabbit antibody antihuman collagen XVII, Ab28440, was obtained from Abcam, Cambridge, UK; and secondary monoclonal goat antibody anti-rabbit, 4010-2, was obtained from Southern Biotechnology  Associates, Birmingham, USA.

d Epiderm FT Kit EFT 200 was obtained from MatTek, USA.

e The Nucleospin RNA II kit from Macherey-Nagel, France, was used for this test.

f 1300 genes PIQOR Skin by Memorec Biotec GmbH, Germany, was used to perform this test.

g The CLSM 310 is a device of Zeiss, France.

h The TCS-SP2 is a device of Leica, France.

Formula 1. Antiaging test cream incorporating AcTP11 active

 Formula 1. Antiaging test cream incorporating AcTP11 active

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