Lessons in Peptides and Finding Balance

Jul 1, 2013 | Contact Author | By: Katie Anderson, Cosmetics & Toiletries
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Title: Lessons in Peptides and Finding Balance
peptidesx Matrixylx liposomesx deliveryx plant cellx cosmetotextilesx
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Karl Lintner, PhD Karl Lintner, PhD

Keywords: peptides | Matrixyl | liposomes | delivery | plant cell | cosmetotextiles

Abstract: On April 16, 2013, in Paris, in-cosmetics organizers presented Karl Lintner, PhD, with the Lifetime Achievement Award; a well-deserved honor as the father of Matrixyl, who has dedicated much of his life to identifying and validating active cosmetic technologies.

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K Anderson, Lessons in Peptides and Finding Balance, Cosm & Toil 128(7) 503 (2013)

Market Data

  • Peptides are spreading beyond their core facial care market; melanin-activating peptides (MAPs) are gaining momentum in self-tanning.
  • Self-tanning accounts for only 5% of the global sun care market.
  • Self-tanning is restricted to developed markets, with North America and Western Europe making up almost 80% of total sales.
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On April 16, 2013, in Paris, in-cosmetics organizers presented Karl Lintner, PhD, with the Lifetime Achievement Award; a well-deserved honor as the father of Matrixyl, who has dedicated much of his life to identifying and validating active cosmetic technologies. Although he is credited for discovering some of the first peptides in the cosmetics industry, it was his experience in fundamental research that enabled him to develop these materials.

C&T: What experience(s) led you to the personal care industry?
For 10 years, I worked at [the Nuclear Research Center] doing fundamental research on biologically active peptides, which had nothing to do with personal care. I then joined Henkel where I worked in the sanitation and hygiene department for the foods industry. [This also] had nothing to do with cosmetics; the first product I formulated was designed for the cow’s teat. We made a lotion that moisturized and protected the cow’s teat after milking. That was my first exposure to creams and emulsions. I started at Sederma in 1990 as the technical director.

At the nuclear research facility, Daniel Greff, PhD, a scientist similar to myself, had left after two years [and bought] Sederma. At the time, it was a five-man operation but he changed the whole company, making it successful with the introduction of shea butter and active ingredients. Although my initial observation of the cosmetics industry was that it wasn’t serious science, I saw that he was conducting research with claim substantiation instruments and laboratories; that cosmetic science was not an oxymoron but there was something behind these ingredients. That changed my perspective of the cosmetic industry.

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This is an excerpt of an article from GCI Magazine. The full version can be found here.

 

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Biography: Karl Lintner, PhD

Karl Lintner, PhD, holds a bachelor’s degree in chemical engineering and a doctorate in biochemistry from Vienna University. After 10 years at the Nuclear Research Center, he joined Henkel’s sanitation department laboratory. Lintner then joined Sederma in 1990, where he spent 20 years as technical director and later became managing director (CEO) before founding his cosmetic consultancy, KAL’IDÉES S.A.S.

Lintner was recently appointed associate professor at the University of Versailles to teach cosmetic chemistry. He has a number of patents and has published articles and book chapters on cosmetic ingredients. He is an active member of the SCC and SFC; is editor-in-chief of the International Journal of Cosmetic Science; was the recipient of the Maison G. de Navarre Medal in 2012; and won the In-Cosmetics Lifetime Achievement Award in 2013.

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