At in-cosmetics in Hamburg, Mibelle Biochemistry will launch an anti-aging active derived from algae that is able to grow on glaciers and permanent snow. Snow Algae Powder (Pending INCI: Chlamydocapsa sp.-101 Extract (and) Maltodextrin (and) Lecithin (and) Water (aqua)) mimics the effects of calorie restriction to improve the longevity of skin cells.
Snow algae are single-cell algae with the unique ability to actively live at a temperature of approximately 0°C. In contrast, most other plants either reduce their metabolic activities or are simply unable to survive at this temperature. Pigment concentration change is one of the strategies developed by the snow algae to enable them to adapt to their extreme habitat. Production of other secondary metabolites such as biopolymers (gallerten), antifreeze glycoproteins (AFGPs) stress modifiers and osmotically active amino acids and sugars also help these extremophile algae to survive in their habitat.
The company produces snow algae powder sustainably in a tailor-made bioreactor. Snow algae is cultivated under favorable conditions (green phase) and unfavorable conditions (elicitation, red phase) in a liquid media in the bioreator. The biomass is then harvested and the snow algae cell walls are disrupted, encapsulating cell fragments and contents into liposomes. This is then sprayed on a powder based on maltodextrin.
At the cellular level, the active protects and activates two key factors of the calorie restriction pathway—the Klotho longevity gene and the AMP-activated kinase (AMPK) energy sensor—that together lead to improved cellular defenses, oxidative stress resistance, cell detoxification and repair. The results in the skin are the production of collagen starting again and a rejuvenation of the dermal epidermal junction. Consequently, the skin barrier is reinforced while the skin appears fresher and detoxified as age spots are less visible.
The active is recommended at 2-3% in rejuvenating and repair formulas, age-defense products, youth protecting and promoting skin care and formulas to increase skin’s longevity.