Function Sponsored by
Karl Lintner, PhD
On April 16, 2013, in Paris, in-cosmetics organizers presented Karl Lintner, PhD, with the Lifetime Achievement Award; a well-deserved honor as the father of Matrixyl, who has dedicated much of his life to identifying and validating active cosmetic technologies. Although he is credited for discovering some of the first peptides in the cosmetics industry, it was his experience in fundamental research that enabled him to develop these materials.
C&T: What experience(s) led you to the personal care industry?
For 10 years, I worked at [the Nuclear Research Center] doing fundamental research on biologically active peptides, which had nothing to do with personal care. I then joined Henkel where I worked in the sanitation and hygiene department for the foods industry. [This also] had nothing to do with cosmetics; the first product I formulated was designed for the cow’s teat. We made a lotion that moisturized and protected the cow’s teat after milking. That was my first exposure to creams and emulsions. I started at Sederma in 1990 as the technical director.
At the nuclear research facility, Daniel Greff, PhD, a scientist similar to myself, had left after two years [and bought] Sederma. At the time, it was a five-man operation but he changed the whole company, making it successful with the introduction of shea butter and active ingredients. Although my initial observation of the cosmetics industry was that it wasn’t serious science, I saw that he was conducting research with claim substantiation instruments and laboratories; that cosmetic science was not an oxymoron but there was something behind these ingredients. That changed my perspective of the cosmetic industry.
C&T: What were some of the first challenges you faced in personal care?
There were lots of challenges right at the start. It was the time when Mad Cow Disease [Bovine Spongiform Encephalopathy (BSE)] was a concern and almost everyone in the industry had animal extracts; mostly cow extracts from the liver, heart and brain. All of a sudden, these products were difficult to sell, so we were challenged to come up with new products and ideas. That is when we introduced the peptides that have become so popular over the past 20 years.
C&T: Who was one of your first mentors and what did he teach you?
Daniel Greff was one of my first mentors. He had a feeling about the connection between marketing and science. Cosmetics is a marriage of technology/science and marketing/imagery, and all that goes with it.
Cosmetically Active Ingredients: Recent Advances, a dynamic collection of 43 Cosmetics & Toiletries articles describes or reviews research of cosmetic ingredients with physiological or biophysical activity on skin and hair. View the world of actives through the eyes and guidance of Karl Lintner, PhD, champion of peptide use in cosmetics. Follow a logical path from the stratum corneum structure and its barrier function to the renewal process of exfoliation and anti-aging that deals with stimulation of skin repair.
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