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TCM Fungus Fraction for Mature/Menopausal Skin
Posted: June 28, 2010
Provital Group has sourced Poria cocos, a fungus used in traditional Chinese medicine (TCM), to create a multi-targeted active for mature skin. Gladback (INCI: Not Provided) is a purified and standardized fraction of Poria cocos derived from the sclerocia (mycelium) portion, which mainly contains polysaccharides and triterpenes. This extract is said to improve the appearance of aging in mature and menopausal skin in three ways: maintaining the skin's hyaluronic acid content, increasing the expression of CD44 in skin and reducing the expression of SPRR.
By increasing the expression of CD44, the trans-membrane glycoprotein that acts as the main receptor of hyaluronic acid and maintains homeostatis in the skin, the active is said to improve the binding of hyaluronic acid in the epidermis and dermis. During aging and menopause, this expression of CD44 and hyaluronic acid reportedly diminishes, leading to reduced skin thickness, firmness and cell renewal. The active is also reported to boost the expression of collagen IV, which maintains the skin's stability as a key element of the dermal-epidermal junction. Finally, the ingredient reduces the expression of SPRR, a family of small, prolin-rich proteins whose overexpression with age causes skin imbalances.
By acting on skin in these three ways, the ingredient reportedly increases skin thickness, luminosity and microcirculation, in turn reducing the appearance of wrinkles. The ingredient is supplied as a transparent liquid that is light gray-brown to gray brown in color. It is soluble in aqueous solutions and is recommended at 3–6% in formulations for mature and menopausal skin.