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DSM Nutritional Products has created a peptide formula that can be used as a bioactive ingredient in cosmetic products to reduce the most visible signs of aging. Syn-Glycan (INCI: Glycerin (and) Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalyl-aminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate (and) Magnesium Chloride) works in two ways, according to the company.
First, the product has been shown in vitro to boost the skin's own production of hyaluronan, which is reported to bind the dermal water into a gel-like form to protect skin structures as well as collagen and dermis cells. This compensates for the lower hyaluronan levels often seen in mature skin that decrease skin's ability to bind water. The company reports that by boosting the amount of hyaluronan in the dermis, the active firms the skin from the inside out.
Second, the peptide formula increases decorin and lumican levels, two important proteins present in human skin, thus improving skin's collagen fibers by making them thinner and stronger. Both modes of action work together to reduce wrinkle formation and skin sagging.
When tested in normal human fibroblasts, the peptide was shown to increase skin-identical hyaluronan synthesis by a factor of 4, while also boosting production of decorin (73%) and lumican (66%). A double-blind study was also performed with 40 female volunteers aged 55–65 and demonstrated visible skin sagging. In addition to noticeable improvements in skin firmness, skin was reported to feel softer and more hydrated.
The active is available in a glycerin-based aqueous solution and is recommended for use in firming treatments, facial contour and remodeling creams, anti-sagging treatments, moisturizing lotions, antiaging solutions and anti-cellulite gels.