Soliance will launch a lightening complex at in-cosmetics 2009 that is said to fade dark spots. Whitesphere Premium (INCI: Sucrose Palmitate (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Glyceryl Linoleate (and) Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet) Almond Oil (and) Water (aqua) (and) Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract (and) Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (and) Undaria Pinnatifida Extract) consists of lightening ingredients that are microencapsulated by the company's technology Spherulite for delivery directly to the melanocyte.
The ingredient is reported to inhibit tyrosinase activity and prevent dopaquinone oxidation to eumelanin/phaeomelanin. The ingredient limits the PLA2 activity, which is responsible for leukotriene/prostaglandine release and tyrosinase activation. The company reports that glabridin, an extract of licorice root, showed strong tyrosinase inhibition in vitro and that Undaria pinnatifida extract, a peptidic extract of brown algae, inhibited melanin production by 39% ex vivo . Finally, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate was shown to be a powerful antioxidant in vitro.
The ingredient is recommended from 0.5 to 1% in: cosmetic products dedicated to mature skin; antiaging and suncare targeting dark spots; specific care for UV-exposed areas such as the face, decollete and hands; and whitening/lightening products. An in vivo study conducted by the company showed the ingredient to increase ITA index by 136% and visibly reduce age spots to create a more even skin tone in eight weeks.