BASF has created a seaweed extract that reduces the appearance of dark undereye circles and crow's feet. Shadownyl (INCI: Water (aqua) (and) Algae Extract (and) Hexylene Glycol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Xanthan Gum) stimulates heme oxygenase type 1 (HO-1) in skin and removes free heme to fade dark circles and reduce wrinkles around the eyes. It also has anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and collagen 1 stimulation activity.
One of the causes of dark circles under the eyes is fragile blood vessels that leak hemoglobin. As hemoglobin breaks down, pigmented degradation products such as heme (red pigment) accumulates in the dermis and epidermis. The result is dark circles under the eyes, and additional consequences of free heme is the production of free radicals and the skin's inflammatory response (fine lines).
To reduce the aged appearance around the eyes, scavenging and disposal of free heme is needed. The company focused on heme alteration by targeting HO-1. HO-1 catabolizes heme degradation into catabolites known to have anti-inflammatory, antioxidation and cytoprotective characteristics. These catabolites are expected to help simultaneously reduce the appearance of dark circles, fine lines and wrinkles.
The active is derived from Fucus vesiculosus, a brown seaweed that grows on the rocky marine shores. The seaweed is often subjected to the stresses encountered by skin, including: dehydration (tides), UV aggression, thermal stress (air/water), oxidation, bacterial attacks (moist environment), seasonal changes and mechanical stress (rocks).
The extract is obtained from a Fucus vesiculosus harvested by hand in the Gulf of Maine. This large area in Canada represents one of the most productive known ecosystems. As a result, each authorized harvester must collect the algae sustainably, in accord with the Organic Crop Improvement Association certification for wild sea vegetables.
The active is recommended for illuminating eye care treatment; intense, multi-benefit eye area cream; brightening eye contour area serum and refreshing eye contour area roll-on.