Berkem has developed Polynektars, a new range of plant-based cosmetic active ingredients based on polyphenols. The first two launches in the line include a skin lightening, antioxidant active derived from oregano leaves and a skin brightener derived from strawberry leaves.
Origa’light (INCI: Origanum Vulgare Leaf Extract) is rich in polyphenols from the hydroxycinnamic acid family. Not only do these polyphenols give the extract antioxidative capability, allowing it to absorb free radicals to prevent the appearance of signs of aging, but they also allow it to also lightens the complexion through its anti-tyrosinase features. After five days of treating murine melanocytes with the active in vitro, tyrosinase activity was reduced by 14% and melanin synthesis by 13%. The company determined an SPF 7.14 for the active using the COLIPA method. After 2 hours of irradiation, it maintained almost 90% of its photoprotective potential, showing good photostability. The extract is recommended at o.1-0.5% in formulations.
To brighten the skin, the company developed Fresh’ka (INCI: Fragaria Vesca (Strawberry) Leaf Extract), which is rich in polyphenols from the flavonoid family. The active brightens dull skin by: toning micro-vessels in the skin and contributing to better cellular oxygenation; refining skin texture through an astringent effect that decreases pore diameter and a tightens skin with tannins; and lightening the complexion gently using anti-tyrosinase properties. A face cream containing 0.5% of the strawberry extract was applied to 20 volunteers for 28 days in a clinical test. Results showed a 35% increase in skin brightness and a 64% improvement in skin smoothness. The ingredient also showed lightening properties in an in vitro test. The extract is recommended at 0.5% in formulations.