From Elastin to Elastic Fibers, Part II: The Clinical Effects of a Natural Dipeptide on the Biological Cascade

By: Philippe Mondon, Sebastian Fache and Emmanuel Doridot - Sederma; Karl Lintner, PhD - Sederma and KAL'idees

Posted: September 4, 2012, from the September 2012 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

Editor’s note: The present article is the second in a two-part series describing the anti-aging effects of a natural dipeptide. Described herein are clinical studies, whereas Part I considered in vitro efficacy.

Facial sagging is associated with aging and essentially is caused by changes in skin elasticity, fat mass and facial muscle function in the cheek. Ezure et al.¹ established and described in detail correlations between sagging level scores and skin elasticity measurements, as assessed by suctiona, with fat content and facial muscle function in middle-aged female volunteers. The underlying causes of these symptoms are ultraviolet (UV) and reactive oxygen species (ROS) induced damages to the connective tissue, i.e., collagen and elastin fibers; enzymatic hydrolysis; reduced renewal of macromolecular synthesis; chronic background inflammation; and the like. Cosmetic research over the past decades has succeeded in developing products to address some of these symptoms and causes, including retinoids,² matrikines,³ free radical scavenger enzymes⁴ and other substances shown to prevent and/or reduce the appearance of wrinkles, thinning skin and impaired barrier. However, only more recently has the specific mechanism of reinvigorating the synthesis, assembly and deposition of elastic fibers to combat the signs of sagging facial skin been investigated.

This is only an excerpt of the full article that appeared in Cosmetics & Toiletries, but you can purchase the full-text version.