Laboratoires Expanscience sourced maca roots from Peru to create an active said to stimulate cellular renewal for reduced wrinkles and radiance boost. Skinergium Bio (INCI: Hydrolyzed Lepidium Meyenii Root) was designed for mature, tired and dull skin.
The active is obtained directly from tuber flour using a bio-enzymatic process patented by the company. The flour is treated with a specific enzyme mix in order to obtain a hydrolysate containing peptides and sugars. The process is completed by a final ultrafiltration phase, designed to eliminate any residual traces of protein. The active ingredient was given 100% organic certification by Ecocert.
The company conducted a study using a model of skin fibroblasts artificially aged in vitro, characterized by the use of fibroblasts derived from plastic surgery (on a female patient aged 26) and cultured to high passage numbers (P15). Without the active ingredient, the replication capacities of aged fibroblasts (P15) are much lower than those of young fibroblasts (P5). The active was applied at 0.01% to aged fibroblasts (P16), reportedly increasing their replication capacity by +37% and +33% respectively at D4 and D7. By stimulating the proliferation capacities of aged fibroblasts, the active reportedly could compensate for the age-related decrease in the dermal cell population and counter intrinsic cutaneous aging.
The company also conducted a double-blind placebo trial where either a placebo or a cream formulated with 0.1% of the active were applied to the hemifacial area of 19 volunteers, aged from 49 to 67 (average age 60), twice a day for eight weeks.
Skin prints were taken using Silflo resin at T0, four weeks and eight weeks in the crow’s-feet area then analyzed by video imaging. From week four, the group treated with the active showed a decrease in all wrinkle parameters: average depth (-3%), length (-12%), area (-12%) and number of wrinkles (-10%). The placebo had no significant effect on these parameters, either at week four or eight.
A trained evaluator also scored the complexion radiance and luminosity of each half-face before treatment, after four weeks and after eight weeks. There was an improvement reported in radiance and luminosity from week four for the cream with the active. After eight weeks, complexion radiance had improved by 35% and luminosity by 25%. The placebo cream had no significant effect on these parameters, either at week four or eight.