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New in Function (page 12 of 51)
Apr 05, 2011 | 05:25 PM CDT
Sodium Laurylglucosides Hydroxypropyl Sulfonate for Sulfate-free Formulations
By: Robert J. Coots, PhD, Colonial Chemical Inc.
The use of sulfonated alkyl polyglucosides (SAPG) to replace lauryl sulfates and lauryl ether sulfates in sulfate-free formulations has previously been discussed. These primary surfactants were created with environmental and human safety in mind. The current paper describes more recent work with this material, specifically focusing on the lauryl version of SAPG.
Mar 02, 2011 | 03:49 PM CST
Anti-aging Skin Care Benefits of Saccharina longicruris Extract
By: Alain Thibodeau, PhD, Innovacos Corp.
Aging triggers the modification of gene expression levels, negatively affecting skin’s ultrastructural integrity and resulting in dry, saggy skin and the appearance of wrinkles. However, an extract of Saccharina longicruris has been found to restore the expression levels of specific genes in senescent fibroblasts, in turn improving barrier function and hydration, increasing elasticity and reducing wrinkles, which are described in this article.
Mar 02, 2011 | 03:42 PM CST
A Polyglucuronic Acid to Target the FIAF Adipokine for Slimming Effects
By: Laurent Rios, PhD; Cédric Delattre, PhD; Paola…
Effective slimming actives should reduce lipogenesis, increase lipolysis, promote fatty acid release and improve skin firmness. Here, the authors describe the development of such an active based on polyglucuronic acid. Further, this material is shown to act on a new biological pathway involving the fasting-induced adipose factor (FIAF) adipokine.
Mar 02, 2011 | 03:36 PM CST
A Melanin Derivative to Shield the Skin from High Energy Visible Light
By: N. Dayan, PhD, Lipo Chemicals Inc.; A. Ballant…
High energy visible (HEV) light recently has been suspected of causing as much damage as UVA and UVB combined. Thus, the present paper describes a fractionated melanin tailored to absorb light in the visibile 400–500 nm range. In addition, because the material exhibits color, the authors focus on formulation techniques to incorporate it into semi-solid formulations.
Feb 03, 2011 | 03:14 PM CST
Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters to Potentiate Glycerin Moisturization
By: Tiffany N. Oliphant and Douglas W. Gilmore, Fl…
Hydrolyzed jojoba esters were incorporated into formulas including a lotion, hand sanitizer and nonwoven wipes. Small, well-controlled clinical studies were then conducted to compare the formulas with or without glycerin. Results show the esters can potentiate the skin moisturizing effect of glycerin under varying formula conditions. A mechanism of action also is discussed.
Jan 03, 2011 | 02:23 PM CST
Targeting the Hair Follicle Basement Membrane to Improve Growth Conditions In vitro
By: C. Gondran, C. Meyrignac, A. Perrin and N. Dom…
Signal transductions mediated by integrins are shown to be involved in hair growth and development. Here, the authors investigate the effect of a botanical corn extract on the expression of different integrins via in vitro measurements of hair shaft elongation. Scalp biopsies show the daily application of the active may improve hair elongation.
Jan 03, 2011 | 02:18 PM CST
Photostabilization of Retinol and Retinyl Palmitate by Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene
By: Craig Bonda and Jean Zhang, The HallStar Compa…
This study examines the photostability of retinol and retinyl palmitate, finding they break down rapidly when exposed to UV radiation in the 290–400 nm range. This severely reduces their concentrations in finished formulations. However, when combined with ethylhexyl methoxycrylene, these retinoids are shown to be protected against photodegradation, thus preserving their concentrations both during the manufacturing process and following application to the skin.
Jan 03, 2011 | 02:15 PM CST
Oak, Green Tea and Orange Derivatives to Disrupt JAK/STAT, NF-κB Irritation Pathways
By: Giorgio Dell’Acqua, PhD; Kuno Schweikert, PhD;…
Activation of NF-κB and JAK/STAT pathways in keratinocytes leads to the release of immunomodulating factors that sustain an amplification loop between the keratinocyte and infiltrating immune cell, leading to skin irritation. To disrupt this loop, two complexes, one based on oak and green tea extracts, and another on orange flavonoids, were developed and are shown here to immediately soothe skin.
Nov 30, 2010 | 04:27 PM CST
Benefits of Borneo Camphor-derived Hydropes for 'Natural' Formulations
By: Gloria Pagnutti; Marco Riva, MD; and Luigi Rig…
Alpha-pinene, typically derived from pine trees, is also a by-product of the paper manufacturing process. The material is a source of low-toxic and naturally based isobornyl ethers, from which a new hydrotrope, dipropylene glycol isobornyl ether, was developed.The present study examines the unique dispersion and solubility properties of this material, among other benefits, and its application in cosmetics.
Nov 30, 2010 | 04:22 PM CST
Vanillyl Butyl Ether to Topically Induce Blood Cell Flux, Warming Sensation
By: Ling-Chiao Chen, Shih-Jung Wu and Christina Hu…
It has been hypothesized that vanillyl butyl ether (VBE) has the same warming and vasodilation mechanisms as capsicum. Thus, VBE was formulated at various levels into cream formulations and applied topically to the forearms of 21 individuals. Following application, changes in blood cell flux (BCF) were investigated using a laser speckle contrast imager.